Vamos a Jeju!

Holly Hughes is a podcast host, author, and self-described clairvoyant whose Korea obsession started during COVID when Netflix suggested 100 Days My Prince. She's been talking about Korea for six years, her husband is banned from joining her trips, and by chance found herself on a tour hosted by Sora. Holly traveled Jeju with Sora in the rain, couldn't see anything at Sangumburi crater, and says the fog made her pay attention to what was close: moss-covered trees, the energy of the land, stories blooming in her head. Key Takeaways Korea origin story : COVID isolation + Netflix algorithm = 100 Days My Prince. Holly became obsessed with hanbok colors, gat hats, bead meanings, and Korean history she never learned in American schools. "I feel like I come home. It's the strangest thing." Jeju origin story : Met five solo-traveling women on her first Korea trip. Their top priority was Jeju. Plus Korean dating shows film there. Plus Rain's motorcycle ride through canola fields. Creative inspiration : Bought four journals, filled them all. "It feels very spiritual to me sometimes when I'm there... it just blooms stories in my head." She's clairvoyant and sees things in the forests, then looks them up and finds they match local spirits. Rainy Jeju : Couldn't see the crater at Sangumburi, couldn't see Biyangdo from Hyeopjae Beach. But the fog forced attention to what was close: moss-covered trees, the path itself. "When you couldn't see further, you had to pay attention to what was close." Travels without husband : He's 6'5" and needs to know every detail in advance. She wants to give up control and say "Where are we going? Oh my god, that's amazing!" Different travel styles = separate trips. Burial mounds on Olleh trails : Ed mentioned walking through family cemeteries. Sora: "For us it's normal. We go there and say hello, give some food or alcohol." Holly found it peaceful, not creepy. Reverse culture shock : Coming home is harder than jet lag. Her family tells her to shut up about Korea. She plans trips 8-9 months ahead, saves so there's no bill when she returns. Olleh Trail tour idea : Ed and Sora discussed leading a walking tour. Sora: "If you don't get paid, it's not illegal." Holly volunteered to be the "spiritual guide." Haenyeo helper system : Sora explained visitors can help carry 20-30kg seaweed baskets. Holly: "That's heavy." Lightning Round Favorite food : Bulgogi, fresh seafood, 김치찌개 (kimchi jjigae), and 소맥 (somaek) Favorite place : Udo and 주상절리 (Jusangjeolli, hexagonal basalt cliffs) — "It looked like you were in space" Favorite memory : Laughing with friends over beer after a full day. "Just being able to be in the moment without a worry." Next Steps Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Ed's cousin Daryuen joins him for five days on the Jeju Olleh Trail, her first time in Korea. They walk through rainy weather, discover a restaurant that's literally someone's house, watch Haenyeo haggle and ride off on their trikes, and accidentally complete two trails in one day when the Haenyeo Museum turns out to be closed. Plus: Jaden's barbecue skills get more airtime than usual. Key Takeaways Cousins who go way back : Ed and Dar traveled the US together as kids (ages 8 and 10) on a month-long road trip from California to New York to Canada to Italy. Now both empty nesters, they reunited on the Olleh Trail. First impressions of Jeju : Dar expected the "Hawaii of Korea" but only saw tourists at the airport on her way out. Walking the trail, she experienced calm farmlands, coastal paths, and local villages instead. The restaurant with a bed : They stumbled into a tiny eatery where the owner's bed was next to the kitchen. No English, five items on the menu, ocean breeze, one of the best meals of the trip. Haenyeo sightings : Dar watched Haenyeo haggle with a buyer, saw them drive off on their trikes with orange floats, and visited the Haenyeo Museum (on a day it was actually open). Two trails in one day : When the Haenyeo Museum was closed on a Monday, they kept walking and finished trails 20 and 21 in a single day, using phone flashlights to find the final stamp station after dark. Udo lighthouse museum : They took the ferry to Udo and hiked up to a lighthouse museum with scale models of lighthouses from around the world. Few tourists because no bus access. Dog walking volunteer outing : Ed, Dar, Sora, and Jaden walked rescue dogs at a local shelter, an experience Dar found meaningful even as a non-dog person. Packing tip : Dar flew from California with no checked bag. Waterproof jacket, pants, and shoes got her through rainy days just fine. Next Steps Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Kylie Genter came to Korea in 2012 knowing nothing except Gangnam Style, chose Korea over Japan because she didn't want to find her own apartment, and somehow ended up as one of the only foreign Haenyeo in Jeju. She dives with the women of Yongnangni Village in the southwest, met her Korean husband at a language exchange that produced seven married couples, and runs a dog hotel as her main income. Sora announces she's been accepted into Haenyeo school, making Kylie her 선배님 (sunbaenim). Key Takeaways How Kylie became Haenyeo : Attended Hansupul Haenyeo school in 2018 after a shamanism class instructor invited her. Her scuba instructor husband then found a village accepting young divers. Yongnangni initially said no to a foreigner, then called back a month later: "Come tomorrow for an interview." The older women didn't understand why a college graduate would do this, but after months of diving, they accepted her. Language exchange romance : Kylie met her husband at Seogwipo language exchange in 2018. Seven couples from that group got married. "Nobody had an intention to study." Yongnangni Village : Southwest Jeju, six young divers (rare for any village), very welcoming. The 삼촌 (samchon, elder divers) give her 25 onions or huge containers of kimchi randomly. "They have very kind and open hearts." Diving schedule : 물때 (Multae) = water cycle, about two weeks. Eight possible diving days per cycle. Only dive October to May (소라/conch season). Summer is sea urchin season but their sea urchins are too small. Must do 바다지킴이 (padajikimi, ocean protection) in summer, yelling at people illegally harvesting. Current export crisis : 70% of conch exports to Japan. The boat was sold with no backup, so January had no diving. Diving days shortened until resolved. Haenyeo Hangout podcast : Kylie co-hosts with JY (Korean-English translator) to share Haenyeo life in English. "I don't want people to think Haenyeo are these mysterious goddess things. We're all regular people." Hardest part of diving : "Everything looks like a rock." Dark ocean, dark stones, dark conch, dark sea urchins. The experienced Haenyeo don't see better; they know from experience where things are. Practical Jeju tips from Kylie : Get international driver's license for car rental. Bus routes can have one bus per day. Jeju is bigger than people think; plan ample travel time. Parking in Jeju City is painful. Reverse culture shock : Jinju people stared at foreigners constantly. Jeju natives are unfazed. "Yeah, OK. Go this way." Lightning Round Favorite food : 방어회 (Bongeo-hoe) — amberjack/yellowtail sashimi Favorite place : Coastal road between Moseulpo and Gosan — best sunsets, most dolphins Favorite memory : First time seeing dolphins in the water (scary and exciting), and getting married (exciting, less scary) Next Steps Check out Kylie's podcast: Haenyeo Hangout Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Sora turns the tables and interviews Ed about his unconventional life: soldier, journalist, dive magazine founder, Microsoft contractor, scuba instructor, slow traveler, language learner, and now "retired" podcaster. He reveals why he homeschooled his kids and took them on 5-month trips across America and Asia, why he walks for hours to "hack his brain," and how he managed to wrangle his temper so that, despite being a mosaic with cracked pieces, he thinks he's "still good enough" for the people whom he loves. Key Takeaways Career path: Soldier (mandatory in Singapore) → journalist → dive magazine founder → Microsoft contractor → financial independence → "retired" but helping friends worldwide (Thailand underwater docs, Vietnam cycling tourism, Vamos a Jeju) Homeschooling: Ed and Michele pulled their kids out of traditional school. Two major trips: 5-month RV across America (sea to shining sea), then 5-month Asia trip including Mongolia. Kids had to create their own YouTube videos as curriculum. Slow travel philosophy: Stay 3-4 weeks minimum per place; make real friends; better value (Airbnb monthly discounts, fewer flights). "Travel hacking" with credit card points for flights. Frugal vs. cheap: "We're not cheap with others, we're frugal with ourselves." Ed stayed in a hotel with cockroaches when alone. With friends, he tries to pay. "Reverse empty nesters": Instead of kids leaving, Ed and Michele leave. When they return, the kids actually want to spend time with them. 청개구리 (Cheong-gaeguri): "Green frog" = Korean term for contrarian/rebellious person. Ed avoided Camino de Santiago because too many people told him to do it. "I never lost myself, so I don't need to find myself." Anger and change: Ed's "seething rage" in his 20s-30s terrified his young daughter and nearly ended his marriage. Michele's ultimatum was the wake-up call. He realized he'd become his father despite promising himself he wouldn't. Walking meditation: Ed's method was partitioning two selves, giving energy to the one he wants to be, having honest self-talk during walks. After 15 years, "the angry part has become smaller and weaker." "Mosaic": Ed describes himself as a mosaic with chipped and cracked pieces, but "still good enough to look at." Paying it forward: Ed helps younger people because mentors took chances on him (one Dutch guy gave him his Microsoft opportunity). "Vamos a Jeju is Sora's brainchild. I'm just the assistant." Future plans: Joint Olleh Trail program on JejuSlowly.com ; possibly one-week Olleh itinerary with Ed as unpaid guide. Next Steps Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask Sora's tours: jejuslowly.com or vamosajeju.com/sora

Ed kicks off the Guest Series by putting Sora in the "hot seat." She reveals her mom's sister went to North Korea and was never heard from again, that sogaeting (blind dates) are now run by companies that score you based on income and parents' wealth, and that Korea's birth rate hit 0.78. She also announces her new tour agency ( jejuslowly.com ) focused on Haenyeo and wellness tourism, which won a Korean Tourism Organization award. Key Takeaways North Korea : South Koreans rarely think about it. "We're too busy with competition here." Sora's mother's sister went to North Korea and never returned. 소개팅 (Sogaeting) : Not "blind" — you exchange photos, school, job, salary, MBTI beforehand. Large matchmaking companies assign you a "score" based on education, income, and parents' wealth. You're matched with similar scores. 속도위반 (Sogdowiban) : "Shotgun wedding" in Korean. Literally "speeding violation" — you went too fast. Marriage customs : Proposals aren't surprises; couples reach consensus first. Women never change surnames. Old preference for sons has flipped: "If you have a daughter, you get an airplane. If you have a son, you get a car." Birth rate : Korea's was 0.78 recently. Sora doesn't plan to have children due to climate change and societal competition. Education : ~60% attend university. SKY (Seoul, Korea, Yonsei) = Ivy League equivalent. Some kindergartens prep kids for US Ivy League. Parents yelling at cops about ruining their child's "medical career" is real. Tour horror story : A guest yelled at Sora: "Do you mean my son who went to Seoul University law school did something wrong?" over a plane seat mix-up. Sora's new business : jejuslowly.com — Haenyeo experiences, wellness (yoga, temple, meditation), 2-night/3-day slow tours. Won Korean Tourism Organization award. Podcast listeners get a discount. Next Steps Sora's tours: jejuslowly.com (or vamosajeju.com/sora ) Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip Voice questions: vamosajeju.com/ask Next episode: Sora interviews Ed

Ed and Sora wrap up their K-drama review series with Our Blues (우리들의 Blues), a 2022 ensemble drama set in a fictional Jeju fishing village. The series tackles depression, teenage pregnancy, Down syndrome representation, hyper-competitive parenting, and the suffocating nature of small-town life. Ed watched it twice; Sora quit after Episode 6 because "it was too heavy." The episode opens with Sora sharing that she was rejected by a Haenyeo village cooperative, which turns out to be a fitting transition into the show's themes. Key Takeaways Writer Noh Hee-kyung : Known for warm, healing, family-focused dramas rather than typical romantic comedies. Some Koreans criticize her for being "preachy," but her ensemble slice-of-life style is harder to write and resonates deeply. Lee Byong-hun's character : A truck vendor who drives around selling pots, pans, and goods. Short-tempered, kind-hearted, carrying trauma from being the child of a mistress. His sales pitch recordings ("fry pan, fry pan") and his mannequin-modeling of ajumma clothes are comedic highlights. Depression storyline (Shin Mina's character) : Used imagery of drowning and suffocation. The character attempts suicide by jumping off a jetty; Haenyeos rescue her. Five years ago in Korea, people couldn't openly discuss depression without stigma. Now conversations are more common. Ed admits he used to make fun of depressed people when he was younger. Sora shares she had a period of depression during grad school during the pandemic. 기러기 아빠 (Kirogi Appa, "Wild Goose Father") : The phenomenon where fathers work in Korea while mothers and children live abroad (often in the US) for education. The fact that Korean has a specific word for this shows how common it was. Sora's corporate boss was a Kirogi Appa who avoided going home because no one was there. Down syndrome representation : An actress with Down syndrome played a character with Down syndrome. Koreans were surprised and impressed. The handsome boat captain (Kim Woo-bin) apologizes for his shocked reaction: "I've never seen anyone with Down syndrome. I never learned what to do. If you feel uncomfortable, I'm sorry." Ed: "Hats off to the producers for being so inclusive." Teenage pregnancy : Two high school students, both top of their class (she was #1, he was #2), get pregnant. She wanted to escape to Seoul because "everyone knows each other and it's choking me." The small-town gossip culture: "In small towns, they know how many spoons and chopsticks you have at home." Mainlander Haenyeo : A young Haenyeo from the mainland struggles to be accepted by the cooperative. Sora: "Now I am in that process... I know it would be really difficult to get in as an outsider, as someone who is not from Jeju, also not from that village specifically." Small-town trade-off : Young people from Seoul move to Jeju for community and connection. But if the connection gets too deep, they pull back. Ed: "If I move to Jeju, I'm gonna purposely keep this 외국인 (foreigner) persona... 'You're in my business? I don't speak Korean now.'" Next Steps K-drama shooting locations: vamosajeju.com/trip (Our Blues was filmed all over the island) Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Hallan follows a mother and daughter fleeing government forces during the Jeju April 3rd Incident (1948-1954), when an estimated 30,000 people were killed in anti-communist purges. The movie is named after the winter orchid that grows on Hallasan even in the harshest winter, much like the people how Jeju survived the darkest of times. The conversation turns to why Jeju people are so exclusive, the "lost villages" that no longer exist, and why older Haenyeos never talk about this period. Key Takeaways 한란 (Hallan) : "Hal" from Hallasan + "lan" meaning orchid. Winter orchid of Hallasan that survives harsh conditions, symbolizing hope. April 3rd Incident (4·3 사건, Sasam) historical context : 1910-1945: Korea under Japanese colonial rule (35 years) 1945: Japan surrenders after atomic bombs; Korea "independent" but occupied by US in south, Soviet Union in north March 1, 1947: Peaceful parade in Jeju (commemorating 1919 independence protests); police killed a baby accidentally sparking a riot and more dead Island-wide strike followed, including Haenyeo US Army investigated and concluded Jeju was a "Red Island" (communist) April 3, 1948: Guerrillas attacked police stations and government buildings at night; war begins 1948-1954: Seven years of killing; anyone 5km from the coast considered a guerrilla and shot on sight; scorched earth policy burned mid-mountain villages ~30,000 people killed (government figure) The movie's message : No one was purely good or bad. Government soldiers committed atrocities. Guerrillas also killed innocent villagers. American forces were complicit (asking "how many?" with quotas). Even the Christian soldier who tried to maintain morality eventually snapped, killed his squad, and took his own life. Key scenes : Opening: Bodies tied to trees with warning signs Mother searching for husband who was killed by guerrillas for suspected spying Lava caves as hiding places; army set fires to smoke people out (Tarangshwi cave) White flags of surrender ignored; Jeju-speaking soldier killed by mainland commander for being "too friendly" Shimbang (Jeju shaman) blessing those leaving to surrender, tying white mourning cloths knowing they would die Trial scene: 6-year-old girl stamped as "rioter" (death sentence) Modern scenes cut to Jeju Airport and Peace Memorial, both sites of massacres Why Jeju people are exclusive : Sora says the common answer is historical trauma. "Lots of people from outside, outsiders, tried to invade and attack these people." Suspicion applies not just to foreigners (외국인) but also mainlanders (육지 사람). Peace Memorial Park : Memorials organized by village; ~30,000 names. Includes room dedicated to those killed in cave massacres. Shoes memorial at Sotal Oreum: people threw shoes from trucks so families could follow and find their bodies; children's shoes among them. Next Steps Learn more: vamosajeju.com/43 Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip (includes April 3rd sites: Peace Memorial Park, Altteureu Airfield, Sotal Oreum) Send voice questions: vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max)

When Life Gives You Tangerines (폭싹 속았수다, Poksak Sokassuda) follows three generations of Jeju women from the post-Korean War era to the present, and both hosts find it uncomfortably close to their own family histories. The conversation ranges from the show's worldwide popularity to why some Korean men were trying to emulate Gwanshik. Key Takeaways 폭싹 속았수다 (Poksak Sokassuda) : Jeju dialect meaning something like "수고하셨습니다" or "고생하셨습니다" (thank you for your hard work, we suffered through this together). 양관식 신드롬 (Yang Gwanshik Syndrome) : SNL Korea did a parody about Korean men who think they're like Gwanshik and try to emulate his behavior. Based on a real trend of men using K-drama characters as role models. Generational trauma reflected in the show : Two separate tables at family meals (men/elders vs. women), with women getting lower quality food/leftovers Sora: "I did the same thing. When we went to my grandpa's house, we always had two different tables for women and for men and elders." Three generations of women : The show traces Jeju and Korean history through grandmother Kwangne (Haenyeo who died young), mother Aesun (IU's mother), and daughter Geummyeong (IU). Jeju women had "double discrimination": housework, raising children, AND making money (unlike mainland where men worked and women stayed home). Power dynamics in Korean families : 고부갈등 (gobu-galdeung): mother-in-law vs. daughter-in-law conflict, a recurring K-drama trope that reflects reality Parents with sons have more power than parents with daughters Son-in-law visits: family prepares a feast. Daughter-in-law visits: she does the work. Ed: "My daughter is precious to me and she is not in the world to be another person's servant." 황혼이혼 (Hwanghon Ihon) : "Sunset divorce" or "dusk divorce." After children are raised and married, parents finally divorce. The rate has increased significantly in Korea. Why Gwanshik was rare in 1960s-70s : Confucian patriarchy from Joseon Dynasty; preference for boys over girls; women couldn't get education or work. Changed after 1980s-90s when women started working and getting educated. Sora's personal connection : Her father-in-law was "kind of this character" (Haksi), which triggered Jaden while watching. But Jaden "chose me over the family, chose over the parents," like Gwanshik did. Why it went global : Common themes across cultures (family conflict, generational trauma, mother-in-law tension). IU's star power brought viewers in; story quality made them stay. Excellent English translation that captured emotional nuance rather than literal meaning. Loop of seasons : Every four episodes named after a season (spring, summer, autumn, winter). Korean saying: 봄 여름 가을 겨울 그리고 다시 봄 (spring, summer, fall, winter, and spring again). The loop of nature = the loop of life. The publisher at the end : Played by the same actress as Aesun's mother, says "Aesun, I'm so proud of you." Ed wonders if it was intentional symbolism (mother reincarnated) or just casting. Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip K-drama shooting locations: Episodes 27 and 28 Send voice questions to vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max) Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Time to Be Strong (힘을 낼 시간) follows three failed idol trainees who go to Jeju to experience the school trip they missed during their training years. Ed watches as a father and finds himself enraged by the exploitation; Sora watches as the oldest daughter in her family and relates to the burden of caring for everyone else. The conversation turns to trainee debt, "passion pay" (열정 pay), fan culture, and why Korean society holds celebrities to impossible moral standards. Key Takeaways The title's meaning : "힘을 내" (Himelne) is an imperative meaning "be strong" or "push on," spoken by others. The director chose "힘을 낼 시간" (Time to Be Strong) because it gives agency to the person suffering, letting them decide when they're ready. The film was sponsored by the Korean Human Rights Committee. The trainee debt trap : Trainees sign contracts where training costs (singing, dancing, housing, food) are deducted from future profits after debut. If you never debut, you owe all of it. You exit with debt, no savings, no professional network, and potentially mental health issues. Competition odds : 10,000 to 1 just to become a registered trainee at a big agency. Of those who become trainees, many never debut. Of those who debut, many don't succeed. Contract restrictions : Trainees cannot work other jobs during training (so no savings). Some contracts prohibit dating; violations can trigger breach of contract penalties. 열정 pay (Yeoljong pay) : "Passion pay," meaning accepting minimum wage because you're doing what you love. Sora experienced this at her first travel agency job. The characters : Soo-min (oldest, female): Carries the burden for the group; developed eating disorder from trainee pressure; constantly worried about the youngest following in the footsteps of a member who took her own life Sarang (youngest, female): Anger issues, depression, gets into a fight that costs them their travel money Tae-hee (middle, male): Owes significant debt from failed training The fan (So-yoon) : Works at bus company lost and found; helps them heal; unusual because she breaks Korean social boundaries directly. BTS ARMY mentioned as example of fans trying to change toxic fan culture. Power dynamics : Once the failed idols were recognized during a fight, the dynamic flipped completely. They had to apologize, pay compensation, and beg people not to call police or post videos. Being a celebrity in Korea can feel like a liability. Lee Sun-kyun case : Actor who took his own life after a drug/affair scandal. Ed notes that in Hollywood this would barely register, but Korean witch-hunting culture and moral expectations for celebrities made it unbearable. 장녀 (Jangnyeo) : Oldest daughter in Korean families; trained to organize, care for others, read the room. Sora identifies with Soo-min because of this. Jeju as healing : Despite the heavy subject matter, Jeju provides the backdrop for processing grief. The film ends optimistically with the characters leaving their biggest pains behind. Sora's personal connection : Her former Sonbae (senior colleague) from her first job also took his own life at age 30-something due to depression and pressure to meet others' expectations. Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Ed confesses he's not a rom-com person but watched all of Welcome to Samdal-ri anyway to prepare for this episode. What hooked him wasn't the love story but the cultural issues the show reflects: workplace bullying (gabjil), witch hunting culture, the Sonbei-Hubei hierarchy, and Jeju as a safe harbor for people fleeing Seoul's toxicity. Sora reveals she sees parallels to her own story of escaping corporate Korea for Jeju, and admits that judging people quickly is "automatic" for Koreans who grew up in a ranking-obsessed education system. The conversation turns surprisingly personal when Ed shares his experience being ranked near the bottom of his class in 1970s Singapore, and Sora confesses she was near the top, which might explain why she judges and Ed doesn't. Key Takeaways Gabjil (갑질) : Abuse of power by those in authority; the protagonist Cho Samdal was falsely accused of this by her assistant (Hubei) who wanted to take her position and boyfriend Sonbei-Hubei (선배-후배) : Senior-junior hierarchy in Korean workplaces and schools; no direct English translation, increasingly used as-is in English Witch hunting (마녀사냥, manyeo-sanyang) : Korean online phenomenon of piling on and attacking individuals, similar to cancel culture; people send hate comments, threatening letters, and try to destroy careers Neutral gear (뉴트럴 기어) : New Korean slang meaning "I'll delay my judgment" rather than pile on immediately; a small cultural shift Jeju as safe harbor : Theme in the show where characters flee Seoul's toxicity for their hometown; Sora relates to this even though she wasn't born in Jeju, she and Jaden "found their home" there Han (한) : Deep, long-lasting sorrow in Korean culture; explains why Yongpil's father held onto grief/hatred for 20+ years after losing his love Samchon (삼촌) in Jeju : Unlike mainland Korean where it means "uncle" (father's brother), in Jeju dialect it's used for any respected elder regardless of gender; Sora calls her female Haenyeo teachers "Samchon" Jeju language vs. dialect : Linguists consider Jeju language a separate language from Korean, not just a dialect Realistic vs. unrealistic elements : The Haenyeo diving scenes used expensive scuba goggles instead of traditional ones; Yongpil's rebellious behavior in a government job would be "not possible" in real Korean civil service Ed's street smart vs. book smart backstory : He was ranked near the bottom in 1970s Singapore schools and got caned by his parents; this made him careful not to judge others Sora's confession : She was good at tests and ranked high, which may explain why judging comes automatically to her; she catches herself doing it and has to consciously stop Trip Planner now has 100+ users Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju. Next episode: Time to Be Strong (힘을 낼 시간), a movie about failed K-pop idols healing in Jeju

Part 2 wraps up the K-drama shooting locations tour with the west and south coasts of Jeju. Sora finally watches Time to be Strong on Ed's recommendation and realizes the foreigner knows more about Korean indie films set in Jeju than she does. The episode covers locations from When Life Gives You Tangerines, Our Blues, Welcome to Samdali, Extraordinary Attorney Woo, and Time to be Strong, plus a sidebar about the word "foreigner" and why Ed finds it mildly devastating. Key Takeaways Ed's note on "foreigner" (외국인): literal translation from Korean/Chinese but carries an outsider connotation in English; Koreans use it neutrally but visitors may prefer "traveler" or "tourist" West Coast locations: Dolphin spotting area / rock pools (tide pools, Jeju dialect: 도구리알): When Life Gives You Tangerines Episode 10 fight scene between Eunmyeong and Hyunsook; also sunset coastal area Hallim Port: When Life Gives You Tangerines scene where Ae-soon picks up Eunmyeong; ferry to Biyangdo (15 min); fish market for cheap raw fish Geumneung area: Our Blues handsome boat captain's RV/camper location with view of Biyangdo; entire Hallim-Geumneung area is Our Blues territory Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road: Our Blues driving/wide shots; Welcome to Samdali Note: Dodongri village in When Life Gives You Tangerines was actually filmed in Andong, not Jeju Southwest locations: Songaksan Dulle-gil: When Life Gives You Tangerines biking scene; Olleh Trail 10; WWII kamikaze boat caves at base Gapado Island: Our Blues couple's first trip; Welcome to Samdali (Yongpil tying Samdal's shoelaces); Olleh Trail 10-1; green barley (청보리) festival in April; 30-min ferry from Moseulpo; day trip or pension overnight; most visitors are Korean Gunsan Oreum: When Life Gives You Tangerines drone shot of Ae-soon and Kwan-sik with flowers; can drive to the top Sanbangsan area: Time to be Strong temple bell scene and small amusement park South Coast locations: Seogwipo KAL Hotel: When Life Gives You Tangerines Episode 15 outdoor wedding scene with ocean view and Munseom/Saepseom/Beomseom islands; near Jeongbang Waterfall Saeyeongyo Bridge to Saeseom Island: Extraordinary Attorney Woo couple scenes; Ed's continuity complaint about the convenience store that doesn't exist on the island; bridge lights up at night; romantic walk spot; near Cheonjiyeon Waterfall; fishing boats leave at dusk with lights Beopwanpo: Welcome to Samdali CEO/secretary scene; beautiful Olleh trail section worth walking even if not doing full trail Real-life update: the "handsome boat captain" (Kim Woo-bin) and "depression girl" (Shin Min-a) from Our Blues got married this year; he recovered from cancer Organize trips by region, not by drama Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show!

At long last, Ed caves to pressure from "all our fans of just one in my house" and pivots to K-dramas. This two-part series maps out shooting locations from recent Netflix hits so K-drama fans can plan efficient itineraries by region rather than zigzagging across the island by show. Part 1 covers central Jeju, Jeju City, and the east coast, featuring locations from When Life Gives You Tangerines, Welcome to Samdali, Our Blues, Crash Landing on You, Boys Over Flowers, and more. Key Takeaways Why Jeju features so prominently in K-dramas: domestic vacation destination for Koreans; volcanic landscapes and coastal scenery; cheaper and faster than Hawaii; no passport required; recent shift from "vacation destination in dramas" to "dramas about life in Jeju" starting with Our Blues Jeju City / Central locations: Jeju Mokgwana (제주목관아): government office that looks like a small palace; When Life Gives You Tangerines writing competition scene; ~2,000 won admission Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: Welcome to Samdali young couple scenes; plane spotting; "Kisses Zone" photo spot under tree shaped like Hershey's Kiss Oradong Maemilbat (buckwheat field): When Life Gives You Tangerines final episode with Ae-soon and Kwan-sik; blooms May-June and September-October Crash Landing on You forest scenes shot in Jeju (can't film in actual North Korea) East Coast locations: Seongsan Ilchulbong area: temple where Ae-soon did 3,000 bows for a baby boy; hydrangea in June-July; Seopjikoji (Boys Over Flowers); Seongsan-Goseong 5-Day Market (Our Blues fish vendor scenes, open on dates ending 2 and 7) Ojo Port: Welcome to Samdali poster location; second floor was built as a set and removed after filming Gwangchigi Beach: Welcome to Samdali; Running Man; Legend of the Blue Sea Maze Land: Running Man; Legend of the Blue Sea; Boys Over Flowers; now has cat café Gimnyeong Beach: When Life Gives You Tangerines young Ae-soon waiting for her mother; near windmill cafés Hado and Jongdal alleys: When Life Gives You Tangerines maemilmuk and chapssaltteok selling scenes Stone Culture Park (Jeju Stone Park): young Ae-soon running by stone walls Sehwa Haenyeo House (Modern Pulteo): Welcome to Samdali haenyeo location Big tree in Pyeongdae: Welcome to Samdali gathering spot; paengnamu trees are sacred village guardians (당산나무) Saryeoni Forest (cypress forest): Welcome to Samdali wedding photo scene; popular for actual wedding photos Plan by region, not by drama, to avoid "making 100 circles around Jeju" Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show! Leave a one-sentence review to help others discover the show

Sora accidentally "demotes" Ed from co-host to guest to announce her first solo tour: a Haenyeo wellness retreat on Jeju. Ed negotiates a discount for listeners (starting at 50%, ending at... 70%?), and then they revisit their most popular clips from the past year. Topics include the controversial stereotype about Jeju men, why "Olleh" means what it means, tangerine-picking etiquette, speed traps on coastal roads, the new K.ride taxi app for foreigners, and flying cheap from Gimpo to Jeju. Key Takeaways Sora's Haenyeo Retreat : September 10-12, three days/two nights. Full day with Haenyeo at their village, interview sessions (Sora translates), seafood BBQ at the 불턱 (bulteok, traditional outdoor community center), Haenyeo theater performance, temple lunch with a monk, yoga and meditation. Two spots left. Listener discount available at vamosajeju.com/sora (redirects to jejuslowly.com ). Most popular clip #1: Jeju men stereotype : From Episode 4. Sora was uncomfortable discussing the historical stereotype that Jeju men were lazy while Haenyeo women did the work. "젠더 감수성 (gender sensitivity)" is a big deal in Korea. She clarifies: "This is the stereotype for Jeju men in the past. These days in modern society, if they do this, they won't be able to get married." Most popular clip #2: What does "Olleh" mean? : From the Olleh Trail episode. Short clip, huge engagement. Ed: "I stopped trying to guess why." Most popular clip #3: Don't go to jail for an orange : Sora's title. Tangerine-picking is popular with city visitors, less so with Ed's family ("We picked blueberries and apples when they were kids"). Speed traps : Ed dreads them. Sora's tip: Take the mountain roads instead of coastal roads to avoid speed cameras and traffic lights. K.ride app : New Kakao Taxi app for foreigners. Same service, no Korean phone number required. Flying to Jeju : Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday late-night flights are cheapest (around $20-25 USD). Incheon to Jeju direct flights now exist but are limited (one or two per week) and more expensive ($90 USD). Gimpo to Jeju is still easier, faster, and more frequent ("like taking a bus"). Podcast origin story : Ed was in Oaxaca pitching a polyglot podcast idea. Sora already had a website called Vamos a Jeju. Ed: "You tricked me." Sora: "No, we were talking, talking, talking, and then Jeju..." Clip Library All clips organized by category at vamosajeju.com/clip : Foodie Culture, Jeju History, DIY Traveling Tips, Getting Around Jeju, Outdoor Jeju, and more! Next Steps Sora's Haenyeo Retreat: vamosajeju.com/sora Clip library: vamosajeju.com/clip Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Ed tests a hypothesis: is comfort food just anju minus alcohol? Sora says not quite. This episode covers the hearty, unglamorous Korean foods that locals turn to when they need warmth, stress relief, or a cure for last night's soju. Ed and Sora walk through the practical challenges of ordering at real Korean restaurants (no English menus, no English speakers, intimidating pace) and share tactics for navigating them. They cover sundubu (spicy soft tofu stew), haejangguk (hangover soup), kimchi jjigae, doenjang jjigae, baekban (home-style meal sets), and Jeju's own gogi-guksu. They also explore why Koreans reach for crazy-spicy food when stressed, and how temporarily replacing emotional pain with physical pain might actually work. Key Takeaways Comfort food restaurants are intimidating for visitors: all-Korean menus, no English, fast pace, not Instagrammable; but they're cheap, delicious, and worth the effort Finding comfort food: search Korean terms on KakaoMap or NaverMap; check photos for menus before arriving; use Google Translate or AI on menu photos Ordering tactic: order the first item on the menu (it's usually the specialty); use numbers and gestures ("이거 둘 주세요" or just "this one, two please") Self vs. Service: "Self" (셀프) means self-service (help yourself to banchan); "Service" (서비스) means a freebie/comp from the owner Sundubu (순두부): spicy soft tofu stew; Ilpoom Sundubu (일품순두부) is a popular chain with locations across Jeju offering unlimited banchan buffets (10,000-12,000 won); the Oedo branch has 30+ side dishes including soy sauce crab, fried chicken, tteokbokki Nurungji becomes sungnyung: the burnt rice at the bottom of the stone pot becomes a palate-cleansing soup when you add hot water and let it steep while eating Haejangguk (해장국): "hangover soup" with variations including beef, bean sprout, pollack, intestine, or blood block (seonji); eaten any time, not just after drinking; popular with ajusshi crowd Other staples: kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), baekban (home-style meal sets with rice, soup, and banchan) Jeju specialty: gogi-guksu (고기국수), pork noodle soup made from pork meat broth (not bone broth like Japanese ramen); there's a whole street for it near the Jeju Folklore & Natural History Museum Stress eating Korean-style: Koreans eat crazy-spicy food when stressed (dakbal, buldak bokkeum myeon, tteokbokki); the theory is that physical pain temporarily overwhelms emotional pain Next Steps Blog post: vamosajeju.com/comfort Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show!

Ed has been confused about the word "anju" for three years. In this episode, Sora finally explains: anju (안주) literally means "hold down the alcohol," but in practice it refers to the food Koreans pair with specific drinks. More than just food, anju is a cultural practice tied to Korea's drinking rounds (il-cha, i-cha, sam-cha), third-place culture, nunchi, and even dating (hunting pocha). The episode covers classic pairings from dried squid with beer to jeon with makgeolli, and reveals that yes, pizza with beer counts as anju too. Key Takeaways Anju (안주) literally means "hold down the alcohol"; refers to food paired with drinks, but also the cultural practice of eating while drinking Dry anju (dried squid, fish jerky, nuts, chips) is common for beer, especially at convenience stores or during sam-cha (third round) Soju pairs with spicy and salty foods: samgyeopsal, dakbal (spicy chicken feet), jokbal (pig feet), bossam; the spice is "washed off" with soju Makgeolli pairs with jeon (Korean pancakes) and kimchi-tofu Beer pairs with chicken (chi-maek) or pizza (pi-maek) Anju can be anything: pizza, cheese platter with wine, stew with soju; if you drink alcohol with food, that food is anju Korean drinking culture involves rounds: il-cha (first round, real meal like samgyeopsal), i-cha (second round, maybe chicken and beer), sam-cha (third round, dried anju to extend hangout time) Nunchi drives the round system: you don't monopolize one table for hours; you move to give the restaurant space Third-place culture: small apartments mean Koreans socialize outside the home Hoesik (company dinners) often feature "safe" anju like samgyeopsal that everyone likes Jeju anju leans toward fresh seafood with soju; beachside pocha (pop-up bars) serve raw seafood at night Hunting pocha: bars in Seoul (Hongdae, Itaewon) where groups of young people meet other groups; age-restricted (under 30) Banju: eating a regular meal with alcohol simultaneously (common among Jeju farmers and fishermen) Sora's favorites: fish cake soup with soju, kimchi-jeon with makgeolli, dried squid with beer Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show!

Ed and Sora tackle the question: what counts as fast food in Korea when all Korean food is fast? This episode covers both Western-style chains (McDonald's, Burger King, Lotteria, KFC, Subway, Mom's Touch) and Korean bunsik classics (tteokbokki, kimbap, twigim, sundae, omuk). Along the way, they explore why Koreans prefer restaurants with one menu item (specialization = quality), why too much choice is overwhelming, and why the real Korean fast food might just be the 24-hour convenience store. Key Takeaways Western chains in Korea: McDonald's has a "Taste of Korea" series with regional limited-edition burgers (garlic from Changnyeong, green onion from Jindo, etc.); Lotteria is a Korean chain with creative limited menus (Culinary Class Wars collaboration, black squid burger, kalbi burger); Mom's Touch is popular near schools Korean fried chicken chains (Goobne, Kyochon, BHC) are considered far superior to KFC; they offer many variations (cheese powder, sauces) and serve beer; open afternoon to late night as anju spots, not lunch places Subway exists but ordering is stressful for Koreans; too many choices is a minus, not a plus; Koreans follow Instagram guides for "perfect orders" Korean pizza has many toppings (potato, bulgogi, sweet potato, steak); 반반 (banban) pizza lets you get two flavors on one pie; Pizza Alvolo is Sora's favorite chain Korean bunsik (snack shops near schools): tteokbokki (rice cakes in sweet-spicy sauce), kimbap (rice rolls), twigim (battered deep-fried items like mandu, vegetables, glass noodle rolls), omuk-gochi (fish cake skewers in free broth), sundae (blood sausage with glass noodles, not ice cream) Tteok-twi-sun: a combo set of tteokbokki + twigim + sundae Convenience stores (pyeonuijeom) are the "real" Korean fast food: triangle kimbap, regular kimbap, dosirak (lunchbox), cup ramyeon; open 24 hours, everywhere, DIY meal hacks on Instagram Isaac Toast (이삭토스트): popular Korean street toast chain with grilled sandwiches filled with cabbage, egg, and sweet-salty sauces; found near schools and universities Next Steps Blog post: vamosajeju.com/fast Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show!

Ed and Sora kick off the Food Jeju series with an episode on one of the most authentic ways to enjoy Jeju's famous black pork: the butcher shop barbecue. Unlike the touristy Black Pork Street restaurants, a butcher shop barbecue (정육점 식당) combines a ground-floor butcher counter with a second-floor restaurant. You pick your meat from the refrigerated display, weigh it, pay at the counter, then head upstairs to grill it yourself. The episode walks through the entire experience, from choosing cuts to understanding the self-service culture, and introduces one of the most iconic tools in Korean cuisine: the meat scissors. Key Takeaways How it works: select meat from the refrigerated case on the ground floor, weigh and pay at the counter, then go upstairs to the restaurant where staff set up the grill; table setting fee is around 3,000 won (~$2) per person and includes lettuce wraps, sauces, and side dishes Common pork cuts: 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal, three-layer pork belly), 오겹살 (ogyeopsal, five-layer with skin), 목살 (moksal, pork neck with less fat) Common beef cuts: 갈비살 (galbisal, rib meat), 부채살 (buchaesal, flat iron), and others; 한우 (hanwoo, Korean beef) is significantly more expensive than imported beef from Australia or the US Black pork vs. regular pork: most Jeju locals eat regular pork daily; black pork is for special occasions or tourists Why self-cooking? Koreans prefer communal dining at their own pace; the youngest person (막내, maknae) typically handles grilling first, then hands off to the next youngest; seniors rarely cook 눈치 (nunchi) = reading the room: Koreans prefer self-service to avoid bothering staff or being bothered; refill your own side dishes and water; don't overstay when it gets crowded Meat scissors: the most iconic Korean BBQ tool; cutting meat while grilling increases surface area for faster cooking and ensures no pink remains (Koreans prefer fully cooked meat) Smoke vents: the pipe above your table sucks up most smoke; check under your seat for a hidden compartment to store jackets and bags away from cooking smells Practical tips: start with small portions (you can always refill side dishes for free); observe what locals do; ask questions if unsure (Koreans are kind to foreigners); don't worry about grilling perfectly on your first try! Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Share the show with a friend who loves Korean BBQ

Ed has been waiting 22 episodes to talk about his favorite mountain in the world: Hallasan, South Korea's tallest peak at 1,947 meters. This episode breaks down everything visitors need to know about climbing Hallasan, from the two summit trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) to the two partial trails (Eorimok and Yeongsil) for those who want the experience without the full commitment. Ed shares his hard-won lessons about wet rocks, knee braces, and the humiliation of being passed by children and seniors on the descent, while Sora reveals she climbed to the summit solo on a snowy November day and made friends along the way. Key Takeaways Hallasan is the tallest mountain in South Korea (1,947m) and a bucket-list climb for Koreans; about 900,000 people climb annually Two summit trails (reservation required): Gwaneumsa (north, shorter but steeper, many rock stairs) and Seongpanak (east, longer but gentler, more forest); 1,500 spots per day total (1,000 Seongpanak, 500 Gwaneumsa) Book on the 1st of the month for the following month; weekdays are easier for visitors since Koreans tend to book weekends Recommended strategy: climb up Gwaneumsa (steep but faster), descend via Seongpanak (longer but easier on knees); you must start from your registered trailhead but can descend either way Time cutoffs: must pass checkpoints by certain times (varies by season, roughly 11:30am-12:30pm for checkpoints, 1-2pm to leave summit); start by 7am at the latest, 5am is better Two partial trails (no reservation): Eorimok (longer, wooden decks, famous for autumn foliage at Eorimok Gyegok) and Yeongsil (shorter, steeper, famous for 500 rock formations called the "500 sons of the goddess"); both meet at Witsaeoreum No convenience stores in the park; bring all food and water; bathroom water is not confirmed potable Koreans bring thermos flasks to make ramyeon at rest stops; at altitude, water boils at a lower temperature so noodles don't fully cook (this is apparently the point) Gear: hiking poles, knee braces (especially for descent), crampons in winter; wet volcanic rock stairs on Gwaneumsa are treacherous Bus 240 connects Jeju City to Eorimok, Yeongsil, and Jungmun (once per hour), but plan a 30 minute hike from the bus stop to the trailheads Koreans are friendlier on hiking trails; strangers share snacks and encouragement (파이팅!) Next Steps Blog post: vamosajeju.com/climb Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju Share the show with a friend!

Ed invented the "mini Olleh trail" concept as a secret strategy to get his hiking-averse family members hooked on the Jeju Olleh Trail. The idea: walk a short, easy section that includes at least one stamping station, get them a passport with a few stamps, take them to the gift shop, and hope they come back to finish the rest someday. This episode maps out mini trails across the island, all under 90 minutes, close to bus stops, and featuring at least one passport stamp. Key Takeaways Mini Olleh standards: under 90 minutes, not too difficult, within 15 minutes of bus stops on both ends, includes at least one stamping station North coast (Jeju City): Sarabong Oreum (Trail 18 start, under 1 hour, murals, harbor views); Dodubong + Rainbow Coastal Road (Trail 17 midpoint at Eoyong Park, 1-1.5 hours, cafes, plane views) Northeast coast: Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (Trail 20 midpoint near Camel Coffee and windmills, flat walk, emerald beaches, K-drama location, bus 201 nearby) East coast: Gwangchigi Beach to Seongsan port (Trail 1 endpoint, walk through town, cross bridge for Iceland-like views, bus 201 serves both ends) East coast: Sehwa Beach and Haenyeo Museum (Trail 21 start, Sumbisori Gil loop through farmlands, Byeolbangjin fortress with canola flowers, optional push to midpoint for two stamps, kalguksu restaurant with money on the walls) South coast (Seogwipo): Olleh HQ is the stamping station for Trail 6 end / Trail 7 start; east fork goes to Jeongbang and Sojeongbang waterfalls (60-75 min); west fork goes past Jeju's only rice field to a temple and coastal road (45-60 min) More mini trails in the blog post: vamosajeju.com/hike Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Get a passport, collect a few stamps, and come back to finish the trail

Ed has been waiting 20 episodes to talk about his favorite thing in Jeju: the 437-kilometer Jeju Olleh Trail. This episode covers everything a potential hiker needs to know, from the meaning of "Olleh" (a Jeju dialect word for the narrow pathway between a traditional house and the village road) to the passport stamping system, the blue (clockwise) and orange (counterclockwise) trail markers, and how to get the completion certificate at the Seogwipo headquarters. Ed shares his top three favorite courses and Sora teases a future guided Olleh tour for English speakers. Key Takeaways 27 routes totaling 437 km; most people do one trail (5-8 hours) or half a trail, not the whole thing No registration required to walk; just follow the blue and orange ribbons with the Ganse horse symbol Optional passport system: buy a booklet at any Olleh visitor center; stamp at the start, midpoint, and end of each trail; endpoint of one trail is the start of the next Blue arrows = clockwise direction; orange arrows = counterclockwise Completion certificate and pin awarded at Jeju Olleh Foundation HQ in Seogwipo (warning: they make you ring a bell and read an award speech) Who should try it: people who like walking, have time, are comfortable navigating buses (some routes have buses only every 2 hours), and are okay staying in local pensions Ed's top 3 courses: Course 21 (Haenyeo Museum through Sumbisori Gil, farmlands, Hado Beach, Jimibong); Course 8/9 (Gunsan Oreum descent through horse trail tunnel to a Mediterranean-style port); Course 1 (ending at Gwangchigi Beach with sunset or sunrise views of Seongsan Ilchulbong) Sora is developing a 1-2 week guided Olleh tour in English; contact soraya@vamosajeju.com Blog post: vamosajeju.com/olleh Next Steps Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook Share the show with someone who needs a walking challenge