Beauty by the Beaker

It’s the first official episode of season 2, and we are going to be trying something a little bit different. Mostly because we want to talk about beauty science you are actually interested in, but also because our lives have been a bit crazy, and we needed another week of chatting to give us more time for research. Since we want to give you the most accurate and easy to understand information we possibly can, we typically have to spend a LOT of time researching for each episode, but we only want to do that for topics you have questions about! This week we are telling you the topics we think are HOT in the beauty industry, and giving you a little insider information on why we think they are worth diving into. If any of today's topics interest you, make sure to comment so we know where to start! We are cosmetic formulation chemists, and today in the science salon we are covering makeup myths, over(or under)hyped ingredients, laser and light treatments, and so much more! Red Light Therapy: It might sound like bologna, but this might actually work! Of course, not all red lights are created equal. As it turns out the wavelength, dosage, and treatment practices can all play a role in the type of benefits you might get from this therapy. Peptides: What are these, and what are they doing? Well, that's not such an easy question to answer. What’s actually coming in that unlabeled bottle you bought online? Niacinamide: This ingredient may be too common to care about. This vitamin is found in many cosmetics, but is it actually doing anything? Experts are ditching it, and we want to know why. Hyaluronic Acid: Or is it Sodium Hyaluronate? What used to be the gold standard for skin hydration has taken somewhat of a fall from grace. So is there a more reliable alternative? Pet Cosmetics: Pet grooming aids like shampoo are not regulated by the FDA, so how do you know what's safe to use on our pets? Find out what the people who formulate these products think about the difference in regulation, and similarity to human products. ‘Toxic’ Ingredients: It's no secret that the EU has banned more cosmetic ingredients than we have in the USA, but is there actually a difference in what is being used in products? We want to dive into the common misconception that your products contain harmful ingredients. Benzene: Did someone say harmful ingredients? This is a known human carcinogen, but the problem probably isn’t cosmetics. We want to dive into why this keeps making its way into the spotlight, and what risk it actually poses. In Office Treatments: Are these worth the money? And what can these do that topical cosmetics can’t? We have talked about light, so what about lasers? Should we swap notes with a dermatologist? Specialized Cosmetics: Are these brands filling a hole in the market, or are they just finding creative new ways to take your money. Sometimes products that you don’t understand are not made for you, but other times there are much cheaper and well studied alternatives for treating actual medical issues. We are giving you a sneak peak at one cosmetic that we find extra audacious. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW! (801) 901-3804 Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Happy Birthday BXB!!! This week we are celebrating 1 year of the podcast by reflecting on some of the epic highs and lows of the past, and setting some new expectations for the future. We discuss the unexpected struggles of co-hosting a beauty science podcast, and the desire to stop the spread of misinformation while still appealing to a large audience… which we unfortunately haven’t done yet after a year… but we aren’t ready to stop trying! And although small, we talk about how positive the feedback on the show has been, especially from the people we were most afraid of judgement from. This episode is extra sappy as we reflect on some amazing industry connections we have made, the milestones we have crossed. We are diving into one of our most asked questions - how do we have a high quality production without making any money? And Natalie is making a (not so) strict rule on who is NOT invited to the salon. Stick around for a new exciting update you’re not going to want to miss! Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Summer isn’t over yet! We have stressed the importance of sunscreen, but how does the sun affect your hair? In this episode we are breaking down the science of UV damage, visible light, melanin, and why some hair fades or weakens faster in the sun. Have you ever wondered if your hair needs sunscreen? Tune in, this episode is for you. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding. In this episode we cover: How UV light damages hair structure Why visible light affects hair color The difference between eumelanin and pheomelanin Why blonde, bleached, and damaged hair is more vulnerable Hair protection tips, including hats, scarves, and leave-on products What to look for in hair UV protectants Whether you’re looking for science-backed hair care tips, summer hair protection advice, or a deeper understanding of UV and visible light damage, this episode has you covered. Timestamps 00:00 - Why nobody talks about sun damage to hair 01:40 - Summer, UV index, and the episode’s main question 02:40 - Valerie George’s UV damage lecture as the key reference 04:37 - Hair structure refresher: cuticle, cortex, and medulla 05:42 - Why disulfide bonds matter for hair strength 06:38 - UV light and visible light as the two main forms of damage 07:19 - How melanin protects hair from sunlight 08:41 - Eumelanin vs pheomelanin and why hair color varies 09:33 - Why lighter hair usually fades and damages faster 11:59 - Why eumelanin protects better from UV than pheomelanin 13:09 - Study findings: blonde hair vs dark hair in sunlight 15:45 - UV damage vs visible light damage in hair 17:39 - The chocolate chip cookie analogy for melanin damage 18:07 - Why humidity accelerates sun damage 19:09 - Leave-on products vs rinse-off protection 19:31 - Why hair SPF is not regulated like skin SPF 20:55 - How hair protection is tested and why it is hard to prove 21:15 - Why formulators need special ingredients to help filters stick 22:20 - Why hats and scarves are the best protection 23:37 - Where to find the hosts’ product recommendations and episode notes 25:14 - Closing advice: protect your hair from the sun #HairCare #UVDamage #SunscreenForHair #HairProtection #BeautyScience #CosmeticChemistry #SunDamage #BlondeHair #HairScience #BeautyByTheBeaker

It’s about time we give you another peak into our vanity shelves! This week we are spilling the details on our favorite skin and hair care products under $30 (well almost, we need to make one exception for Sadie). As cosmetic formulation chemists we have tried a lot of different products, and are very familiar with all types of ingredients. Join us in the Science Salon for 10 products we are currently obsessed with. And we know how hard it can be to trust ‘influencers’ but don’t worry, we are scientists. We have no affiliation with any of the brands or products that we are talking about in today’s episode. These are just products that we are actually buying, using and liking. Remember, we are talking about PERSONAL care, so even though we like these products, they might not be the best options for you. We are cosmetic formulation chemists, so our suggestions are coming from the sensory experience and wearability of skincare products. We do not necessarily support any efficacy claims that the brands are making. Let us know if you have tried any of these products, or have any products you want our opinions on! We are here to pull back the curtain and expose all your favorite cosmetics. Nat’s Picks e.l.f Holy Hydration Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm Panoxyl Acne Foaming Wash Thayer’s Hydrating Milky Toner CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum Eucerin Age Defense SPF 50 Face Sunscreen Sadie’s Picks Reale Actives Pore Power Exfoliating Cleanser Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer Experiment Beauty Super Saturated Serum Regimen Labs Glycolide Lipid Repair Amika Flash Instant Shine Mask for Shiny Hair Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources! Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music, and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Are you ready for perfect hair? Good, because this episode is your scientifically proven guide to perfect hair! .. well… sort of. As it turns out, hair isn’t super vital, and for that reason, there hasn’t been a very strong push for rigorous scientific evaluation. But today we have the closest thing we are going to get to a hair expert, Sadie! Sadie performs microscopic hair analysis, and writes up a customized report, detailing everything you could need to know about your hair. She has looked at thousands of hairs under a microscope, and through this research has seen common hair issues, and today she is sharing the solutions. This week we are back in the science salon, and we are here to solve your hair horrors. First we are covering the basics and talking all about the hair structure. Then we dive into the most frequent issues when it comes to hair. The solution may be more simple than you think! Want your hair analyzed under a microscope? Use code BXB10 for $10 a custom Hair Analysis from Sadie's business, Strandprint ! Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

What ingredients are in your lash serum? And is it really worth the risk? Long, luscious lashes are a beauty goal for many, but do you really know what's happening when you use those popular eyelash serums? This week we are diving into an unlikely lash lengthener that was discovered while treating glaucoma. We are telling you everything you need to know about prostaglandin analogs. These ingredients not only stimulate lash growth but can also cause side effects like eye color darkening and sunken under-eye fat. In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Natalie and Sadie explain the science behind lash enhancers, revealing why they're effective and how they might do more harm than good. We cover: How prostaglandin analogs influence your hair growth cycle to produce longer, thicker lashes The truth about the only FDA-approved lash serum, Bimatoprost (Latisse), and its risks Why ingredients like peptides and oils might be safer, yet less dramatic, alternatives The potential danger of prostaglandin analogs causing your eye fat to shrink and your iris to darken Practical tips to protect your eyelashes and avoid undesired side effects, focusing on more sustainable routine habits. This episode is great for beauty enthusiasts who want that fluttery lash look without risking their eye health. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Timestamps: 00:00 - The chemistry behind lash serums and their effects 00:40 - The biology of eyelash phases and how serums extend growth 02:14 - Side effects: fat loss under the eyes and eye discoloration 03:02 - Glaucoma, prostaglandin analogs, and their accidental lash-growing effects 04:17 - The mechanism of prostaglandin analogs on eyelashes and eye health 05:09 - FDA-approved lash ingredients versus marketing claims 06:02 - The eyelash growth cycle and how serums hijack the process 07:27 - How prostaglandin analogs can cause eyelid and eye color changes 08:27 - Reversibility of fat loss and risks of eye pigmentation 09:25 - Safe lash practices and alternative products 10:11 - Summary of risks and safety tips for users of lash serums 11:04 - Making your lashes appear longer with makeup tricks 12:12 - Practical advice for protecting natural lashes and monitoring side effects 13:40 - The importance of clinical evidence in choosing lash serums 14:25 - Everyday habits influencing lash health and longevity 15:46 - Final safety considerations and product recommendations 16:36 - Enhancing lash appearance with makeup techniques 17:00 - Final thoughts Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Exosomes are rapidly becoming the hottest buzzword in skincare, but what do we really know about their power? Are they the regenerative breakthrough they're made out to be, or simply a clever marketing tactic? If you're curious about whether products claiming to harness these tiny cellular messengers are worth your hard-earned money, this episode is for you! As cosmetic chemists, we cut through the hype to explain what exosomes are, and more importantly, what they aren’t. We are breaking down the science behind these cell signaling vesicles, why their source (human, plant, bacteria, or fungus) matters immensely, and what current research really says about their ability to improve skin. We dive into the biggest misconceptions, including the limitations of topical delivery, the regulation hurdles, and why the price tags often don’t match the proven benefits. We explain the different sources of exosomes, and explore the promising data behind human-derived strains from blood and stem cells, but of course we also highlight just how early-stage and inconclusive most studies remain. We cover some questionable delivery methods like microneedling, patches, and other in-office procedures that might enhance absorption, and why many topical products may never penetrate a healthy skin barrier effectively. Without proper regulation and solid science, many products may be more about impression than efficacy. And we obviously need to cover the regulations, so we highlight how unsubstantiated claims cross into unapproved drug territory, putting consumers at risk. Understanding these nuances helps you make smarter choices, avoid wasted money, and set realistic expectations for skin ‘rejuvenation.’ Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Timestamps: 00:00 - What are exosomes and why they're key in skincare marketing 02:00 - How exosomes function as cell-to-cell messengers 03:30 - Different sources of exosomes: human, plant, bacteria, and fungi 05:00 - The significance of exosome source on their messaging and effectiveness 07:00 - Challenges of topical delivery and clinical methods to bypass the skin barrier 10:00 - Regulatory status: FDA approval and legal concerns around exosome claims 14:00 - Evidence supporting the use of human-derived exosomes in skincare 16:00 - The potential and limitations of bacteria and plant-derived exosomes 22:00 - Cost implications: why certain products are more expensive and what that indicates 26:00 - Formulation hurdles: stability, storage, and ensuring activity over shelf life 30:00 - Efficacy expectations: what current science can and can't promise 36:00 - Practical advice: whether to invest in exosome products or opt for proven treatments 38:00 - The primary target of skin aging treatments - sun protection and retinoids 39:00 - Final thoughts: the future of exosome research and regulatory developments Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Welcome back to the Science Salon! You might claim to be a K-beauty fan, but did you know that it’s a result of Korea’s strategic comeback after the 1997 Asian financial crisis? And was Missha the first Ordinary when it comes to simple and effective, no-frills skincare? This week is part 2 of our K Beauty series, and this week we are discussing all things Hallyu, or the Korean Wave. We break down how Korean beauty became a worldwide phenomenon, why the 10-step Korean skincare routine took off, and what people often get wrong about K-beauty trends (especially regarding sun protection). Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. In this episode we cover: What is K-beauty? Is the 10-step Korean skincare routine really necessary? Why is Korean skincare so focused on prevention? How did K-beauty spread globally? What are the cultural and economic forces behind Korean beauty? This episode explores the history of Hallyu, the Korean wave, and how Korean media, K-pop, K-dramas, and beauty products helped shape global beauty standards. We also talk about the benefits and drawbacks of beauty culture, the pressure to look perfect, and why sunscreen, hydration, and prevention are so central to Korean skincare. We mention brands and concepts like Amorepacific, Innisfree, BB cream, cushion foundations, sheet masks, road shops, and the intentional marketing behind K-beauty’s global success. We also discuss how social media and TikTok have influenced the way people think about skincare routines, beauty standards, and “perfect skin.” Whether you’re here for Korean skincare, K-beauty history, beauty science, or cultural analysis, this episode has you covered. Chapters: 00:00 Intro 02:16 Continuing the K-beauty conversation 05:43 Korea’s export strategy and soft power 10:02 The rise of K-beauty brands 28:18 BB cream and cushion makeup 32:27 The 10-step Korean skincare routine 38:07 Sunscreen, prevention, and beauty culture 41:46 The pressure of never being enough Key Sources https://elisehu.com/flawless/ Glass Skin, Colourism & SPF Scandals: The Truth Behind The Rise Of Korean Beauty - Behind The Beauty Why are South Korean cosmetics so popular? | The Global Story Podcast Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. www.beautyxbeaker.com Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

You can’t be a skincare fan and not know about K-Beauty. Today we are talking about the history behind Korea’s astonishing rise to global beauty powerhouse. It’s more than just cosmetic, it’s a story of resilience, strategy, and innovation. Most Americans overlook Korea’s deep history, but a centuries-old story of oppression, evolution, and social shifts laid the groundwork for today’s K-beauty craze. We are going all the way back to the beginning, and looking at how ancient legends and the strict standards of Confucianism laid the groundwork for modern beauty culture. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. This episode is for anyone wondering how history can shape beauty standards. We cover: How ancient Korean beauty standards prioritized external health and inner vitality. Skincare using ingredients like rice water, green tea, and ginseng. The fascinating roles women like the Gisang played as both entertainers and pioneers of skincare techniques, including early double cleansing. The impact of Korea’s political upheavals, from Japanese occupation and the Korean War to the rise of Hallyu, in shaping the industry’s resilience and innovation. The emergence of iconic products like Bakgabun powder, and its lead poisoning downfall, highlighting early challenges in establishing successful skincare lines. How Korea’s cultural exports like K-pop, dramas, and movies have created a global fascination that fueled the Korean Wave (Hallyu), turning to soft power with enormous economic influence. 00:00 — The Origins of K-Beauty and Korean History 06:53 — Cultural Influences and Historical Context 09:42 — Beauty Standards Through the Ages 13:33 — The Impact of Confucianism on Beauty 21:32 — Japanese Occupation and Its Effect on Korean Exports 25:50 — The Rise of Korean Cosmetics 30:26 — The Emergence of the Modern Girl 32:42 — The Birth of Amore Pacific 35:57 — Challenges During the Korean War 38:37 — The Impact of Political Regimes on Beauty Standards 40:49 — The Factory Girl Aesthetic 43:34 — The Shift Towards Democracy and Globalization 46:22 — The Korean Wave and Its Influence on Beauty 49:46 — Conclusion: Like, Subscribe and Follow Key Sources https://elisehu.com/flawless/ Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

We bet you have heard of Ozempic, but did you know it was first discovered in Gila Monster venom? This week we are talking about weight loss drugs, and the shocking side effects they can cause. If you're curious about the science, the beauty industry's profit-driven response, and why these weight-loss drugs might be doing more harm than good, this episode is your essential guide. We talk about the mechanism of action, and how it's used for managing blood sugar and suppressing appetite. We’re talking all about how and why these drugs work, and why their popularity has skyrocketed beyond medical need into the realm of aesthetic obsession. We break down the real risks, like facial volume loss, "Ozempic face," and the accelerated aging many users are experiencing. We reveal how the beauty and skincare industry is quick to cash in on these side effects, marketing products that promise to reverse or hide the very issues caused by these powerful medications. You'll learn why topical treatments and expensive serums are often a marketing illusion that can't substitute real medical procedures for lifting or tightening skin. This episode is for anyone concerned with body image, or interested in understanding the truth behind rapid weight loss and beauty industry hype. As cosmetic chemists, our goal is to help you recognize the industry’s tactics designed to profit from insecurities. Because understanding the science and the industry’s game means you're less likely to fall prey to false promises. Note: We are not medical professionals. Always consult with a healthcare provider before making decisions about your health or medication. This episode offers context and insights but is not medical advice. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. In this episode: The history of society’s obsession with thinness and the rise of appetite-suppressing drugs How GLP-1 drugs like Ozempic work biologically and their primary purposes The aesthetic side effects associated with rapid weight loss, notably "Ozempic face" The surge of beauty products marketed specifically to mitigate side effects of Ozempic Critical insights into marketing claims around "Ozempic skincare" and fake efficacy The risks of self-prescribing and unregulated beauty solutions Recommendations for safe, effective approaches and consulting professionals Timestamps: 00:00 - Society's obsession with thinness since the 1800s 02:02 - The rise of appetite-suppressing drugs and their side effects 04:13 - Introduction to GLP-1 drugs and their purpose 07:05 - How GLP-1 from venom inspired Ozempic's development 09:23 - Medical uses for GLP-1 drugs in diabetes and weight management 12:13 - Societal pressures fueling misuse of these drugs for aesthetic goals 14:33 - Side effects including "Ozempic face" and facial volume loss 16:05 - The body's natural aging reveal through rapid weight loss 18:18 - Rising cosmetic solutions targeting side effects like sagging skin and dullness 20:09 - Marketed skincare products for "GLP-1 skin concerns" and their questionable claims 22:31 - Evaluation of studies supporting these skincare claims 24:10 - The beauty industry's cycle: creating problems and selling solutions 27:36 - The importance of consulting healthcare professionals before using drugs or products

This week we are diving deep into Accutane, also known as isotretinoin. This is one of the most talked about acne treatments in dermatology. If you’ve ever wondered how Accutane works, why skin can get worse before it gets better, what the purge phase feels like, or whether Accutane is actually safe, this episode breaks it all down in a science-backed, easy-to-understand way. We cover the accidental discovery of Accutane, the history behind isotretinoin, how it targets sebaceous glands and oil production, and why it’s often considered a last-resort treatment for severe or stubborn acne. We also talk about common Accutane side effects like dry skin, dry lips, bloody noses, joint pain, vision changes, and increased breakouts during the purge phase. You’ll also learn about the iPledge system, the required pregnancy prevention program, the controversy around its new rollout, and the reasons dermatologists and patients have criticized it. We are discussing the real-world experience of going on Accutane, as well as the emotional side of dealing with Acne. We talk about how to decide with a medical professional, how to determine the right time, if ever, to try this stuff out. Whether you’re researching Accutane for yourself, comparing acne treatments, or just want to understand the science behind one of dermatology’s most effective medications, this episode is for you. Chapters: 00:00 Intro + why Accutane deserves its own episode 02:03 What Accutane is and what it treats 04:17 How acne actually forms 06:10 The history of Accutane 09:10 Early studies and why it worked so well 13:13 How Accutane works 18:03 Getting prescribed Accutane 19:19 Dosage, cumulative dose, and cost 21:19 Pregnancy testing, birth control, and iPledge 25:15 The iPledge controversy and website overhaul 27:47 Common side effects and purge phase 30:47 Long-term effects and benefits 31:22 Microdosing Accutane 32:14 Does acne come back after Accutane? 33:05 Should you be scared of Accutane? 34:37 Acne stigma and confidence 37:39 Final thoughts on trying Accutane 39:06 Outro Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

EMERGENCY SUNSCREEN UPDATE! The FDA just approved the first UV filter in over 20 years! Join us for breaking news in US sunscreens. This ingredient promises to be the safest and most effective filter the United States Market has ever seen, but what does that actually mean as a consumer? This week we are telling you EVERYTHING you need to know about Bemotrizinol, BEMT, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Which is actually still an INCI name, not IUPAC) Tinosorb S, or Parsol SHIELD. Whatever you decide to call it, we are here to break down what it means for the future of your sun protection products. Plus we are diving into the history of sunscreen regulation, and explaining why this ingredient is brand new in the US, but has been used abroad for almost 20 years. If you’ve ever wondered why American sunscreens feel different from those in Europe or Korea, this episode unpacks the complex history behind US regulations and the science behind a game-changing sunscreen active, BEMT. We are unpacking how this new ingredient offers broader UV protection, reduces skin irritation, and could finally end the white cast nightmare. Whether you’re a skincare fanatic or just tired of greasy feeling skin, you’ll discover how this novel ingredient could make your sunscreen better, lighter, and more effective, and why it’s a symbol of progress in a long-standing regulatory limbo. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. 0:00 Introduction and Episode Overview 2:10 Emergency Sunscreen Update 3:05 Understanding Sunscreen Ingredients 16:33 FDA Approval Process Explained 19:08 Historical Context of Sunscreen Regulation 25:43 Future of Sunscreen in the US 32:58 Conclusion and Social Media Call to Action Sources: https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expands-sunscreen-options-first-time-20-years https://www.npr.org/2026/06/13/nx-s1-5856385/sunscreen-skin-protection-bemotrizinol https://labmuffin.com/how-do-sunscreens-work-the-science-with-video/ https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8682817/ https://www.fda.gov/drugs/historical-status-otc-rulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc-sunscreen-drug-products https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-1999-05-21/pdf/99-12853.pdf https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12332967/ https://thehill.com/policy/healthcare/5922475-bemotrizinol-sunscreen-approval-fda/

0:00 - Introduction to Looksmaxxing Discussion on the concept and its societal implications. 15:18 - A Never Ending Pursuit For Perfection How looksmaxxing has roots in historical beauty practices. 19:06 - Modern Trends and Influences The role of social media and influencers in popularizing looksmaxxing. 21:35 - Gender Perspectives Differences in beauty standards and expectations for men and women. 25:14 - Psychological and Social Impacts How looksmaxxing affects self-esteem and social interactions. 28:31 - Ethical Considerations The dangers and ethical concerns surrounding extreme beauty practices. 29:37 - Conclusion and Personal Reflections Final thoughts on the future of beauty standards and personal empowerment. This week we are diving into a HOT topic - Looksmaxxing. Most of society can agree that appearance ISN’T everything, but why haven’t we ever been able to move past the importance of our looks? and why are straight men suddenly going to such dangerous lengths to maxximize their appearance? In this provocative episode, we unravel the (not so) surprising parallels between gendered beauty practices and the extreme phenomenon of looksmaxxing among men, from steroid injections to bone smashing. Is this just a new twist on a tale as old as time? Join us in the Science Salon, and discover how the desire for societal acceptance fuels this dangerous trend and why mainstream media, social media, and even medical professionals play a role in pushing these extreme practices. We break down the origins of looks maxxing, revealing how a 2010s niche internet phenomenon has become a mainstream obsession. We explore the impact of black pill ideology, where appearance is seen as the only way to social mobility, and why society's system of beauty standards needs urgent reevaluation. We analyze real examples like Braden Peters, better known as "Clavicular", the TikTok star injecting steroids and smashing his jaw, and examine how younger generations are risking their health in pursuit of perfection. We are talking about the dangerous extremes like plastic surgery, illegal drugs, and body modifications that are widely normalized in the beauty industry, even if they are inherently reckless. Beyond the shock factor, this episode challenges you to think about the systemic pressures behind looksmaxxing. Is this merely individual vanity, or are we all complicit in a system that prizes superficial beauty over genuine confidence? We consider how media, societal expectations, and gender stereotypes shape this obsession, and what we can do to foster self-love and confidence outside of appearance. At the end of the day, the non stop pursuit of perfection is in vain. Remember to love each other, and look for ways to help people out. BXB welcomes all, no matter their physical appearance. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. Key Sources: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvqBPkJIkmc&list=PLV7JqwvL7SSsYciULwVUZuYwXPZybUDHN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXKCoFz3WRs&list=PLV7JqwvL7SSsYciULwVUZuYwXPZybUDHN

Is there a line between makeup and skincare? If there is, it's extremely blurry, and understanding the science behind it can change the way you approach your beauty routine. In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie peel back the layers of what truly goes into your favorite complexion products. from BB creams with origins in 1960s Germany to the skin tints that are still very popular today. Discover the surprising history of BB and CC creams and why they’re more than just beauty trends, but a reflection of industry shifts, inclusivity challenges, and innovative formulations. You'll learn about the pigments added to skincare and makeup, the difference between oil-soluble and insoluble colorants, and why each ingredient in a product can impact it’s texture, wearability, and skin benefits. We break down the complex chemistry behind oil-based formulas, explaining why many makeup products are potentially good for skin, despite their ‘call out’ ingredients. This episode dives deep into currently available products like concealers, skin tints, and SPF makeup. We share real-world reviews and the truths behind marketing claims. Get insights into why shade inclusivity is such a challenge, but why it’s not acceptable to continue to make excuses for it. Is makeup claiming to treat skin issues just marketing hype? We offer our best practices for layering skincare underneath makeup effectively. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. Extra Reading! https://labmuffin.com/whats-a-cc-cream-and-dd-and-ee/ Flawless: Lessons in Looks and Culture from the K-Beauty Capital - Elise Hue

We are unlocking the secret differences between makeup and skincare formulations and discover why most companies excel in one, but not both. Cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie pull back the curtain on how the beauty industry structures its product development, from the complex web of outsourcing to the specialized labs that craft your favorite products. They explore the vast “umbrella” of cosmetics, breaking down why makeup (color cosmetics) require such painstaking precision, and how formulating a lipstick or foundation is a whole different ballgame from creating a serum or night cream. You'll learn about the intricacies of color matching, the high cost of pigments, and our opinion on why darker shades may be less common. Listen to this episode now and discover: How the cosmetic industry separates color cosmetics from skincare and why they’re often produced at different facilities The specialized skill sets required to craft liquids, solids, powders, and aerosols, and why not every lab can do it all Why color accuracy in makeup is so critical, and how formulation impacts everything from shade range to product stability The role of active ingredients and how their concentration impacts efficacy, compared to the immediate visual impact of color cosmetics The hidden costs behind pigment selection and why darker shades tend to be more expensive to produce How FDA regulations influence color choices and ingredient options in the US market This episode is perfect for beauty lovers, aspiring formulators, or anyone curious about what goes into the products they use every day. Get a crash course in the science that makes makeup vibrant and skincare effective, and understand why some products are more complex (and costlier) than they appear on the surface. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

We are cosmetic chemists, and today we are uncovering secrets behind hair care myths, product hype, and what science actually says about styling and cleansing routines in this lively Q&A. From horse shampoos to curl conditioners, discover whether your favorite products are worth the hype, and learn how to optimize your routine, even in hard water or with stubborn color fades.Ever wondered if rinsing with cold water truly seals the cuticle or if hot water strips your hair? Want to know why curly hair responds differently to shampoos or whether you should really avoid sulfate shampoos for color preservation? We break down these common doubts and share surprising insights straight from the lab, demystifying marketing claims and giving you practical, science-backed advice.Discover why hair pH matters, how to choose shampoos that work in hard water, and the truth about the influence of temperature and water type on your hair health. We also explore the real reasons behind product overhype. Including some specific brands that may not deserve the praise — and how to identify the best beauty solutions for your concerns.This episode is perfect for anyone tired of being overwhelmed by endless product choices or questioning the marketing spin. If you’re a curly girl aiming for bouncy curls, a color-treated hair enthusiast, or simply want to optimize your routine, you'll gain insights to make smarter decisions and avoid wasting money. Plus, get a peek into how chemistry impacts everyday beauty routines.Natalie and Sadie are both cosmetic chemists with years of experience formulating skincare and hair care products. Together they are answering your burning questions and bringing clarity to the world of cosmetics.Tune in to decode the myths and make informed choices, because you deserve hair that looks and feels amazing, backed by science, not hype.Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.https://www.beautyxbeaker.com/Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at info@beautyxbeaker.comSpecial thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Are you brushing your teeth with explosives? No, not really, but your cosmetics could still set off alarms going through TSA, and not just because they are bigger than 3.4oz. In this episode we are diving into a cosmetic ingredient that might help with tooth sensitivity, but it might also get you stuck at the airport security checkpoint having your luggage swabbed. Potassium Nitrate, KNO3. In this episode we are diving into some of the primary uses of Potassium Nitrate. We are covering fertilizers, fireworks and filet mignon (meat preservation), and how the oxygen present in nitrates makes it helpful for many everyday uses. Then we are talking about its use in cosmetics. If you have ever used a toothpaste designed to reduce sensitivity, then you have used this ingredient. We are covering how sensitivity relief toothpaste works, and the studies that have proven it to be effective (and of course, poking some holes in them). It's always important to remember that the same ingredient can be used in multiple applications, and will perform differently in each of them. If there is an ingredient in common with fertilizer and your toothpaste, that does NOT mean you have fertilizer in your toothpaste. The concentration and the other ingredients in the formula are always going to be more important than any one ingredient (Unless you are have an allergy) Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at info@beautyxbeaker.comSpecial thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Do you know truth behind terms like "non-comedogenic"? Most skincare claims are based on estimates and outdated science, In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie reveal the hidden flaws in skincare labeling, and why "non-comedogenic" means little without proper evidence, and how marketing exploits consumer fears. If you have shopped for cosmetics you have probably come across the term non comedogenic, but what does that really mean? In this episode we are talking all about what it actually takes to be permitted to legally use the words non comedogenic on your product, shockingly its not much. We are introducing a new more robust term, acnegenic, which tells us more about the likelyhood of a clogged pore actually leading to acne. We are also talking about some different ways that you can find products that work well with your skin and don't break you out. In this Episode we cover: Why the term "non-comedogenic" is virtually unregulated and how companies often label products without rigorous testing The differences between non-comedogenic, non-acnegenic, and their relevance for acne-prone skin How current testing methods like rabbit ear studies and acne checkers often give misleading results The truth about FDA regulations, recent legislation like MoCRA, and why most cosmetic claims are just marketing Practical advice on patch testing, ingredient concentrations, and how to avoid pore-clogging ingredients without falling for buzzwords Empower you to ask better questions and make smarter choices. Perfect for skincare enthusiasts, dermatology skeptics, and anyone navigating the confusing world of beauty marketing, this deep dive will have you questioning labels and understanding what truly matters when it comes to healthy skin. Science is still learning, and skincare brands are often a few steps behind—don't be fooled by marketing. Arm yourself with knowledge and make decisions grounded in real science, not just buzzwords. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Most people believe certain ingredients or products cause acne, but the truth is far more complex, and surprisingly outdated. This week we are diving into the real science behind the popular non-comedogenic claim that’s been shaping skincare for over 50 years. This episode unpacks the origins of the Rabbit Ear Study, revealing why its findings are not super reliable. If you’ve ever read a label claiming “non-comedogenic” and wondered what it really means, this is your essential guide to understanding the truth about acne-causing ingredients, and spoiler: it's not what you think. Sadie and Natalie, cosmetic chemists with over a decade of experience, break down the belief that certain ingredients block pores and cause breakouts. This idea was born in the 70s using animal testing. You’ll discover how early studies overstated the impact of individual ingredients, and why the finished product’s formulation, ingredient purity, and application hygiene matter far more than isolated components. We explore how modern science challenges the simplistic idea of “bad” ingredients, emphasizing that the overall formula matters, and not just one ingredient on a list. Key Topics: The history and origins of the "non-comedogenic" claim, starting from the 1972 rabbit ear study by Albert Kligman and Otto Hills. The limitations and flaws of animal testing models, specifically how they overpredict comedogenicity compared to human skin. How formulations and the overall chemistry of a product impact its likelihood to cause breakouts, not just single ingredients. The myth that certain ingredients inherently cause acne, emphasizing the importance of dilution and formulation context. Insights into how modern studies and testing methods have evolved, including human trials and revisiting old assumptions. Why consumer-facing lists of "bad ingredients" oversimplify the complexity of skincare formulations. The influence of marketing, misleading claims, and the importance of understanding how products are tested and regulated. Timestamps: 00:00 - What does "non-comedogenic" really mean and its misleading origins 02:22 - The 1972 rabbit ear study and its flaws as a predictor of human acne 05:21 - Differences between cosmetic acne (acne cosmetica) and hormonal acne 10:07 - How animal models compare to human skin in skincare testing 13:28 - Revisiting the "rabbit ear" study and its relevance today 17:22 - The role of dilution and overall formulation in comedogenicity 20:34 - Limitations of small sample sizes and outdated testing methods 24:39 - Why individual ingredients are less important than the complete product 27:00 - The impact of application habits and hygiene on acne 30:36 - How marketing simplifies complex science to sell products 33:37 - Modern research and reevaluation of old theories on acne and cosmetics 35:44 - What's next: Regulation, testing, and consumer guidance Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

How do we know which skincare ingredients actually work? Do cosmetics even work? Or are over the counter topical drugs the only way to reliably treat problem skin? In this discussion episode, hosts Natalie and Sadie reveal why some treatments are prescription-only while others are OTC, and why this matters more than you think. This week we are continuing our retinol conversation, and also revisiting some of our other recent topics like PDRN and Reale Actives, and explaining why cosmetic brands have no incentive to do good scientific studies. Discover how the FDA's outdated definitions make it tricky for brands to bring effective ingredients to market, and learn why some companies boldly blur the lines with ambitious claims. Uncover the real science behind retinoids, PDRN, and other active ingredients, debunking myths about strength, formulation, and regulation. We are breaking down why tretinoin is prescription-only, but other retinoids aren't. The complex dance between FDA definitions, bioavailability, and product efficacy, and why some ingredients get labeled as drugs while others stay in the cosmetic market, despite similar effects. We’re chatting about practical tips for choosing safer, more effective skincare, whether you’re a novice or seasoned professional. In a world flooded with confusing claims and fluctuating regulations, knowing the difference could save you time, money, and skin misery. This episode is perfect for anyone overwhelmed by skincare choices or curious about the real science behind the products you use daily. Join us as we navigate the regulatory retinol maze, and remember that slow and steady wins the vitamin A race. Your skin will thank you. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.