The Tramping Life

Today we head into Mount Aspiring National Park for one of the South Island’s classic backcountry tramps, the Gillespie Pass Circuit . This spectacular 58 km circuit links the Young and Wilkin valleys, crossing the 1,500 m Gillespie Pass and travelling through beech forest, wide river valleys, and high alpine terrain. Along the way sits one of the best side trips in the region: the climb to Crucible Lake, a glacier-fed alpine lake tucked beneath Mount Alba. I walked the circuit in December about a decade ago, managing much of it in two long days thanks to a combination of jet boat access up the Makarora River and a helicopter ride out from Siberia Hut. Along the way there were wet valley walks, crowded huts, spectacular views from Gillespie Pass, and a memorable evening hike up to Crucible Lake just before sunset. The Gillespie Pass Circuit combines classic West Coast–style valley travel with dramatic alpine scenery, making it one of the most rewarding multi-day tramps in the region. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, highlights such as Crucible Lake, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk the circuit.

Emeritus Professor of Ecology David Norton has spent a lifetime exploring Aotearoa’s backcountry — from teenage climbs in Arthur’s Pass to fieldwork deep in Westland’s forests. In this episode, he reflects on how those early tramping adventures shaped a career in ecology, restoration, and helping farmers understand the biodiversity on their land. We talk about memorable trips in South Westland, riflemen and kaka, the hidden damage deer cause to our forests, and how trampers can help restore resilience to the landscapes they love. David also shares insights from the Think Like a Forest film and explains why native forests — not pine plantations — hold the key to a sustainable future for Aotearoa. https://www.instagram.com/davidnortonnz/

In this episode of we head to the slopes of Mount Taranaki to visit one of the most spectacular and highest public huts in the North Island, Syme Hut . Sitting at around 1,940 m on an old volcanic cone high on the mountain’s southern flank, the hut offers remarkable views across much of the North Island on a clear day. The route begins at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and climbs steadily through forest and subalpine vegetation before emerging onto steep volcanic slopes of loose scoria and rock. The final section is an exposed climb towards Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut itself, gaining roughly 1,000 metres of elevation over about 9 kilometres. I visited Syme Hut while attempting a section of the old around-the-mountain circuit in 2021. What followed was a long and windy climb, some difficult decisions about whether to continue, and eventually one of the most memorable hut stays I’ve ever had, with spectacular sunset and sunrise views from high on the mountain. In this episode I share an overview of the route, the history of the hut, my experience climbing to it, and some practical advice for anyone thinking of making the trip.

Chris Maclean is a historian, writer, and unapologetic solo tramper who has spent a lifetime in the hills. In this episode, Chris shares stories of swimming rivers with a pack on his back, being rescued from the Ruahines after his heart gave out, and the joy (and occasional awkwardness) of tramping in the nude. We also trace his journey from publishing Tararua: The Story of a Mountain Range to co-authoring Tramping: A New Zealand History , his reflections on working with Sean Barnett and Robbie Burton, and his thoughts on how the digital age changed the world of New Zealand outdoor publishing. A rich, funny, and deeply human conversation about the land, its stories, and what it means to truly be immersed in the New Zealand outdoors. https://www.chrismaclean.co.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to the Greenstone–Caples Track , a 61 km circuit through the Greenstone Conservation Area near Glenorchy at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Often overshadowed by the nearby Routeburn Track, the Greenstone–Caples offers an easier multi-day tramp through two very different valleys – the broad, open Greenstone Valley and the narrower, more forested Caples Valley – linked by the 698 m McKellar Saddle. I walked the track solo in winter over four days, initially planning a quiet escape after a period of exhaustion from work. What followed included misty valley walks, empty huts, failed attempts to light hut fires, unexpected company from hunters, and some remarkable dark night skies. The Greenstone–Caples isn’t as dramatic as some of New Zealand’s alpine Great Walks, but it’s a beautiful part of the country and a very accessible multi-day tramp. With three well-spaced huts and relatively gentle terrain, it’s a great introduction to tramping for those looking to build confidence in the backcountry. In this episode I share an overview of the track, highlights from the walk, and some practical advice for anyone thinking about tramping the Greenstone–Caples.

My guest this episode is Kayla Kingdon-Bebb , Chief Executive of WWF New Zealand, and a passionate advocate for biodiversity, climate action, and the role of indigenous communities in conservation. Originally from Canada, Kayla grew up exploring forests and fjords before moving to Aotearoa more than 15 years ago. We talk about her first tramps in New Zealand, what makes the Heaphy Track so special, her love of the takahe, and how her experiences with grizzly bears reshaped her views on human–wildlife connection. Kayla also shares insights into WWF’s work on ocean conservation, the challenge of bycatch, and why New Zealand’s hut network is such a national treasure. It’s a wide-ranging conversation about adventure, purpose, and protecting what makes Aotearoa unique. https://wwf.org.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I tackle one of the Lakes Region’s most challenging tramps: the Motatapu Track. This 49 km route runs between Glendhu Bay near Wanaka and Macetown near Arrowtown, crossing high tussock country with almost no flat sections. With around 3,000 m of cumulative ascent and descent over three major hills, it’s a hard but rewarding walk offering expansive views of Lake Wanaka, the Arrow River, and the surrounding peaks. The highest point is the 1,270 m Roses Saddle, and the track is largely exposed, with minimal shelter, three 20-bunk huts, and no booking requirements—though it gets busy in summer as part of Te Araroa. I share my experience walking the track in two days, including tussock-covered ridgelines, challenging descents, and the solitude of Highland Creek Hut. Highlights include the spectacular panoramas from Jack Hall’s Saddle, the historic gold rush town of Macetown, and the sheer sense of remoteness that makes the Motatapu Track one of New Zealand’s most physically demanding yet memorable tramps.

Bruce “Chopper” Reay has spent much of his life deep in the bush, from possum hunting and eel fishing in the wilds of the South Island, to his current home at Saxton Hut near Fiordland’s Hollyford Track. In this episode, Bruce shares his stories of living months at a time in the wilderness, eating possum, nearly failing his university degree due to over-tramping, and being rescued multiple times by helicopters after close calls in the mountains. We talk about his love of the bush, his time with the Canterbury University Tramping Club, and the lifestyle he’s carved out away from towns and bureaucracy.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of New Zealand’s most iconic coastal walks: the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds. This 71 km route is typically walked from Ship Cove in the north to Anakiwa in the south, following ridgelines and shorelines with terrain that undulates between sea level and hills up to around 450 m. The track passes through native forest, across headlands, and around numerous coves and bays, offering dramatic views of sunken valleys, rocky coastlines, and the surrounding Marlborough Sounds. Part of Te Araroa, the track crosses private and council land, requiring a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative pass for sections near Kenepuru Saddle, and features a mix of DOC campsites and private lodges, with the option to transfer bags between overnight stops. I share my experience walking the track in November 2020, from the historic Ship Cove—where Captain Cook anchored—to the towering ridgelines and scenic viewpoints along the peninsula. Along the way, I met fellow walkers and bikers, admired thousand-year-old rimu trees, enjoyed the quiet of DOC campsites, and even spotted playful weka. Highlights include the mix of coastal and inland scenery, historic interpretation at Ship Cove, and the opportunity to relax at campsites with birdsong as your alarm clock.

Duncan Webb is the Labour MP for Christchurch Central and lifelong tramper. From his early days exploring the forests of England to challenging multi-day treks across New Zealand’s high country, Duncan shares his most memorable adventures, close encounters with wildlife, and the lessons he’s learned navigating both the outdoors and the halls of Parliament. We chat about his first icy river mishap in Arthur’s Pass, his favourite alpine huts, tramping with family, and the balance between tramping and hunting. Duncan reflects on the complexities of New Zealand’s backcountry, conservation, and pest management, offering a unique perspective on how outdoor experiences shape values and leadership.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of the South Island’s best-known private tramps: the Kaikōura Coast Track. This 26 km two-day route is run by a pair of local farming families and offers a rare combination of epic coastline, regenerating native bush, farmland, and peaceful accommodation for a maximum of a dozen walkers each day. Day one follows the coast and inland gullies to The Whare, while day two climbs to the 486 m summit of Skull Peak before returning to the Beach House at Ngaroma. I share my experience walking it in April 2025, from zig-zagging across beaches shaped by the 2016 Kaikōura earthquake to the towering matai, kahikatea, and totara trees of Medina Gully. Along the way, I encountered spectacular viewpoints, quiet inland tracks, and the character-filled cottages that make the overnight stays so memorable.

Former Minister of Conservation Eugenie Sage joins The Tramping Life to talk about her lifelong love of the outdoors, from building huts as a child to tramping the St James and the Old Ghost Road. We hear about her earliest memories of wild Auckland gullies, mishaps with camp burners, and close encounters with karearea (NZ falcons). She reflects on her years in politics — the wins, frustrations, and the enduring fight to protect New Zealand’s landscapes from overdevelopment and invasive species. Eugenie also shares her thoughts on the future of conservation, the lessons from the Jobs for Nature programme, and why ungulate and pig control are just as vital as predator-free efforts. It’s a wide-ranging, thoughtful conversation about tramping, conservation, and what it means to truly care for the places we walk.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I head to North Canterbury to tackle one of New Zealand’s classic multi-day tramps: the St James Walkway. This 66 km route winds through the high country, taking in the Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve, the historic St James Station pastoral lease, and Lake Sumner Forest Park. Typically walked over 4–5 days, it’s a tramp of wide open valleys, beech forest, river flats, and two relatively low passes—Ada Pass and Anne Saddle—offering a sense of scale and solitude rare in the South Island. I share my experience walking the track at the end of March, including the bush-lined river valleys, suspension bridges over Cannibal Gorge, and spectacular viewpoints from Ada Pass. Along the way I spent nights in huts ranging from the quirky triple-decker bunks at Cannibal Gorge Hut to the modern comforts of Anne Hut, spotting local wildlife and even the famous herd of St James horses.

This is a special episode of The Tramping Life, dedicated to Shaun Barnett — one of New Zealand’s most respected tramping writers, photographers, editors, and advocates for the backcountry. For many listeners, Shaun will be a familiar name from book spines, magazine covers, and hut shelves across the country. For others, he was a tramping companion, a mentor, a correspondent, or a quiet source of encouragement. Shaun died in June 2024 at the age of 55, following a year-long battle with brain cancer. His passing was felt deeply — not only because of what he contributed to New Zealand’s tramping culture, but because of how he lived and how he treated people. Over a career spanning more than three decades, Shaun was editor and then roving editor of Wilderness Magazine, editor of FMC’s Backcountry, and the author or co-author of several seminal books including Classic Tramping in New Zealand, Tramping in New Zealand: A History, Sheltered from the Storm, and A Bunk for the Night. Alongside this work, he gave generously to conservation, mentoring, advocacy, and community life. Shaun’s writing was meticulously researched, deeply informed by history, and grounded in genuine care for people and place. His knowledge of New Zealand’s tracks, huts, landscapes, and tramping history was extraordinary — and he shared it with humility, warmth, and quiet generosity. This episode brings together memories from friends, colleagues, and fellow trampers who knew Shaun in different ways. Their stories paint a picture of a life well lived, and of a man who helped shape the tramping life in Aotearoa. Photo credit: Peter Laurenson

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I take on the lesser-known Abel Tasman Inland Track, a 41km route through the forested spine of Abel Tasman National Park. While most walkers stick to the iconic Coast Track, this route heads inland—climbing to nearly 900 metres near Gibbs Hill and offering a much tougher, quieter alternative. It’s steeper, rougher, and far less scenic, but delivers something increasingly rare in New Zealand’s Great Walk network: solitude. I share my experience of pushing the track over two days instead of the usual three, dealing with relentless tree roots, mud, and long stretches without views. From the steady climb out of Marahau, to the tough middle section between Holyoake Clearing and Castle Rock Hut, through to a late arrival at Awapoto Hut and an early morning push over Pigeon Saddle, this is a very different side of Abel Tasman. We talk about: What the Inland Track is really like compared to the Coast Track Whether it’s worth doing (and who it’s actually for) The physical demands, terrain, and hut experience Practical tips for planning, including transport and logistics This is a track that divides opinion. It’s a solid workout and a chance to experience real quiet in a busy park—but it’s not one for views. If you’re curious about going beyond the beaches of Abel Tasman, this episode will help you decide if the Inland Track is worth your time.

Robbie Burton has spent a lifetime straddling two worlds — the wild backcountry and the world of books. The long-time co-leader of Potton & Burton, one of New Zealand’s most influential independent publishers, Robbie has also tramped and climbed across the country, including a three-month traverse of the Southern Alps from Milford to Nelson Lakes. In this episode, Robbie reflects on growing up free-range in Nelson, the teenage adventures that sparked his lifelong love of the mountains, and how those early experiences shaped both his outlook and his publishing career. We talk huts and hunger, heavy packs and light gear, how tramping culture has changed, and the challenges of keeping outdoor writing and photography alive in a digital world. It’s a conversation about wilderness, words, and why some journeys — on foot and in print — are worth taking slowly. Photo credit Mike Sim https://www.pottonandburton.co.nz/ https://www.pottonandburton.co.nz/product/bushline/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head somewhere few people associate with overnight tramping — Auckland. Just 25 minutes by ferry from the city lies Rangitoto and neighbouring Motutapu Island — two contrasting islands that combine volcanic geology, conservation success, military history and classic Kiwi bach culture. Rangitoto, Auckland’s youngest and largest volcano, erupted around 600 years ago, forming a 23km² island of jagged lava fields and pōhutukawa forest — the largest pōhutukawa forest in the world. Scattered along its shores are more than 100 historic baches, built mainly in the 1920s and 30s. Three have been restored by the Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust, including Bach 78 at Islington Bay — a simple, character-filled place to spend the night. From the 259m summit of Rangitoto there are expansive views across the Hauraki Gulf and back to Auckland’s skyline. Staying overnight transforms the experience — sunset without the ferry crowds, ruru calling in the dark, and birdsong on the walk back down Summit Road. Across the causeway lies Motutapu — older, farmed, and historically rich. Once occupied by Māori prior to Rangitoto’s eruption, later a venue for large Victorian-era picnics, and heavily fortified during World War II, it now hosts extensive native restoration led by the Motutapu Restoration Trust. Over 500,000 trees have been planted, and both islands are now pest-free sanctuaries supporting takahē, saddleback, kererū, pīwakawaka and ruru. On this trip I stayed twice at Bach 78, walking the more rugged Coastal Track to Islington Bay, watching sunset from a deserted summit, and exploring Motutapu’s rolling hills, WWII remains, Home Bay campsite, and Emu Point. The contrast between Rangitoto’s raw volcanic terrain and Motutapu’s pastoral hills is striking — two distinct landscapes joined by a narrow causeway. Rangitoto and Motutapu offer a rare combination: accessible, affordable, logistically simple — yet quiet, scenic and historically layered. An overnight here feels far removed from the city, despite being within sight of it.

Adam Currie is one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s leading young voices in the climate movement. We explore his love of wild, remote trips — from hauling surfboards through native bush to packrafting the Gillespie Pass circuit — and how time outdoors has shaped his activism. Adam shares his thoughts on mentorship in the mountains, why accessibility matters more than fancy gear, and how tramping can help bridge our political divides. He also opens up about optimism, activism, and why he still believes we can emerge from the climate emergency together. From butter puddings to bush politics, this is a conversation about nature, community, and hope. https://www.instagram.com/adam_currie_nz/ https://350.org.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we return to Nelson Lakes National Park for one of New Zealand’s classic backcountry circuits — the 80km Travers–Sabine Circuit — with a demanding side trip to Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake, regarded as one of the clearest natural freshwater lakes in the world. Starting from St Arnaud on the shores of Lake Rotoiti, the Travers–Sabine Circuit typically takes 4–7 days and traverses a broad cross-section of Nelson Lakes terrain: beech forest, braided river valleys, open tussock basins and high alpine passes. The high point is Poukirikiri / Travers Saddle at 1,787m — a 450m climb followed by a steep 1,000m descent into the Sabine Valley. Along the way I pass Lakehead and John Tait Huts, climb toward Upper Travers, descend to West Sabine, and push on to Blue Lake Hut near Rotomairewhenua. Please note: Blue Lake is a wāhi tapu (sacred site). Visitors must not enter or contaminate the water. This was my thirteenth multi-day tramp — and one of the more eventful. Torrential rain turned tracks into streams. I faced my first flooded river crossing and waited two hours for water levels to drop before committing. A broken hiking pole, hail, thunder, and a long, punishing 23km day tested judgment and pacing. I arrived at Blue Lake Hut in darkness and exhaustion — then woke to perfectly clear water, blue ducks, and mountains reflected in stillness. The Travers–Sabine Circuit rewards preparation, patience and sound decision-making. It is not technical mountaineering, but it is serious tramping — with real exposure to weather, terrain and fatigue.

Lydia Brady is a mountaineer, guide, and author, best known as the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen. In this episode, Lydia shares her remarkable journey from teenage tramping trips in the Lewis Pass to record-setting Himalayan ascents. She talks about the “James Bond day” that nearly ended in disaster, how she found confidence in the mountains, and what she’s learned guiding others at high altitude. We also discuss how climate change is reshaping Aoraki / Mount Cook, the evolving culture of New Zealand’s alpine huts, and why reconnecting with wild places is essential for our wellbeing and our planet. It’s a conversation about resilience, risk, and the deep rewards of living close to the edge. https://lydiabradey.com/