Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.
38. End of Season 1: Fashioning Part Two - Gemstone faceting techniques
Send us Fan Mail This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones. End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. We will be back, enjoy your summer key topics Diamond designing and marking Dividing and cleaving methods Shaping and faceting techniques Polishing and final finishing Tools and equipment used in gem cutting Mastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant The Art and Science of Gemstone Faceting sound bites "Only diamond can cut a diamond" "Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes" "Start with the pavilion, then the crown" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing 02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds 05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds 08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds 10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting 13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles 15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting 18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams 21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives 24:49 The Faceting Process Begins 28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing 32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets 36:58 Final Steps and Reflections 39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Up resources Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+design Instagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_si diamond manufacturing, gemmology, faceting, cutting techniques, gemstone design, diamond polishing, gemmology course, gemstone tools, gemmology education Support the show
37. Gemstone Fashioning Part One: An Overview for Gemmology Study
Send us Fan Mail In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike. key topics Gemstone cutting terminology Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations Practical tips for evaluating rough stones Gem Cutting Vocabulary Diamond Manufacturing Process Gemstone Cut Optimization Review gemstone terminology regularly Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting Explore historical gem cutting techniques Titles Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guide sound bites "The old mine cut has a rich history." "Inlays and carvings add artistic value." "A break in gem cutting is coming soon." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones 03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts 05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts 08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones 11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning 13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones 16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting 19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture 21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting 24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting 27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting 29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History 32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features 34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones 36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison 38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts 40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting 41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting 44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques 46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic Expressions The V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gems UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/ guest links Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk gemmology, gemstone cutting, gem fashioning, gemmology exam, gem cutter, gemstone shapes, diamond manufacturing, gemmology history, gemstone grading, jewellery industry Support the show
36. Interview: Michelle Mai - Cutting and Designing Gemstones
Send us Fan Mail Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode. Precision gem cutting techniques Tools and machinery for faceting Design principles for gemstones Materials used in gem cutting The journey of a gem cutter Guest name Michelle Mai Titles Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Mai sound bites "Equipment is a huge barrier to entry" "Polishing quartz is challenging for me" "Start with cabochons to learn the basics" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting 08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting 10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery 13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting 15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting 18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials 21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs 24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance 27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs 29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques 32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations 35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting 37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective 39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting 44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters 51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Arts resources Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/ Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/ Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/ guest links Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMai Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/ gem cutting, gemmology, precision faceting, gemstone design, gem tools, gemstone materials, gem industry, gem education Support the show
35. Tourmaline Part II: The King of Tourmaline...?
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone. Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types. San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining. The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline. Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market. The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death. Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations. Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones. Historical context enhances the value of gemstones. Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them. Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours. Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed. Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour. Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type. The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market. Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity. Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation. Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba. Famous tourmalines often have historical significance. The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty. The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone Journey Unveiling San Diego's Gemstone Secrets The Legacy of the Dowager Empress Cixi Tourmaline: From Mine to Market "She banned foot binding." "It's a serious bottleneck." "It's called Heitorita." "It looks like stained glass." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two 02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History 05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline 17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market 18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques 22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations 25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline 26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline 30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value 34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline 38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline 39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance 42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beauty tourmaline, gemstones, San Diego, Dowager Empress Cixi, gemmology, pink tourmaline, gemstone testing, history, gem market, California tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, gemstone treatment, colour variations, gemmology, gemstone value, geological origins, famous gemstones, Liddicoat tourmaline Support the show
34. Gemstone Colour: Charge Transfer and Colour Centres
Send us Fan Mail Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike. key topics Charge transfer in gemstones Colour centres and defects Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour Titles The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours sound bites "Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions." "Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology 02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones 05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer 08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story 10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition 16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds 22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds 25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds 27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds 30:48 Exploring Colour Centers in Diamonds 35:28 The Future of Gemmology and Podcasting resources Gem-A Gemmology Course - https://gem-a.com/education Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk gemmology, gemstone colour, charge transfer, sapphire, diamond, heat treatment, colour centres, spectroscopy, mineralogy Support the show
33. Tourmaline Part One: Conquistadors and the party where everyone's invited
Send us Fan Mail Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon. Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmology Simon and Lucinda Titles The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Lore sound bites "Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue." "Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline." "Rubellite is a deep, moody red." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates 04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement 08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview 12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline 17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline 20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline 24:17 Formation of Tourmaline 29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline 36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique Qualities Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology tourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions Support the show
32. Causes of Gemstone Colour: Dispersed Metal Ions
Send us Fan Mail This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips. Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour Valency states of transition metals and their effects Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemology Energy transfer in electrons Valency and atomic environment influence on colour Colour change effect in gemstones Review the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colors The Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light "Light as packets of energy excite electrons." "Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour." "Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology 02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour 05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour 08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour 10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations 13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change 16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour 18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects 21:25 Conclusion and Future Topics resources Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com Spectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.com Simon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/ gemmology, gemstone colour, dispersed metal ions, valency, atomic environment, luminescence, gemstone spectroscopy, Alexandrite, ruby, emerald Support the show
31. Interview: Ian Dun FGAA FGSGA, Federal President Gemmological Association of Australia
Send us Fan Mail This week we are joined by Ian Dun, president of the Gemological Association of Australia. Discover insights into gemstone grading, Australian gemstones, and the future of gemological research. Of Particular interest is GAA's, world first, Opal Studies Course. Come and listen to find out all you need to know. key topics Gemological education and certification in Australia Australian gemstones: Opal, Sapphire, and more Advances in gemstone grading and identification guest name Ian Dun Titles Unlocking the Secrets of Gemmology with Ian Dun Australian Gemstones: A Deep Dive into Opal and More sound bites "Welcome to Facet Nation, a gemmology podcast." "Opal is misunderstood and polarizing." "Australian opal is my favourite gemstone." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Facet Nation and Ian Dun 01:52 Ian Dun's Gem Story and Career Path 08:49 The Gemological Association of Australia: History and Courses 12:55 Diploma of Diamond Technology and Practical Grading 21:42 The Online Opal Course: Development and Purpose 23:39 The Journey of Opal: From Mine to Market 27:36 Understanding the Opal Course: Structure and Feedback 29:21 The Allure of Opal: Personal Perspectives 34:19 Opal's Renaissance: Trends and Design Innovations 38:19 Research and Future of Opal Studies 40:39 Exploring Other Australian Gemstones 52:32 The Future of Gemmology: Education and Career Paths Resources Gemological Association of Australia - https://www.gem.org.au/ Opal Course - https://www.gem.org.au/courses/opal-studies/ CIBJO Opal Guide - https://www.cibjo.org/ keywords gemmology, gemstones, Australian gemstones, gemstone grading, gemmological education, opal, diamond, jewellery design, opal study, education Support the show
30. Colour: Physical Optics and Colour Phenomena
Send us Fan Mail Explore the fascinating world of physical optics in gemstones, focusing on iridescence, thin film interference, and the science behind colour phenomena like labradorescence and opalescence. Perfect for budding gemologists and enthusiasts alike. key topics Physical optics in gemstones Iridescence and wave interference Thin film interference in gem materials Unveiling Gemstone Colours: The Science of Iridescence and More The Hidden Physics of Gemstone Beauty: A Deep Dive sound bites "Iridescence is caused by wave interference." "Labradorescence is due to the chemistry of feldspar." "Pearlescence results from stacked layers of aragonite." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Physical Optics 02:09 Understanding Iridescence 11:00 Exploring Twin Planes and Their Effects 14:11 The Fascination of Labradorescence and Adularescence 20:03 The Nature of Light and Colour 21:06 Exploring Rainbow Moonstone 22:28 The Allure of Pearls 25:06 Understanding Iridescence in Pearls 28:27 The Mystique of Opals 36:52 Reflections on Quality and Value in Gemstones resources Facet Nation Podcast - https://youtube.com/@facetnationuk guest links Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk gemmology, physical optics, iridescence, labradorescence, opalescence, gemstone science, thin film interference, gemstone phenomena Support the show
29: Organics: Coral. Don't bleach it! Or Maybe you should.
Send us Fan Mail This episode explores the fascinating world of coral, its history, types, and significance in gemmology. Hosted by Simon and Lucinda, it covers everything from the biological origins of coral to its cultural importance and modern regulations. sound bites "Polyps are tiny creatures related to sea anemones." "Coral structures are like a living family tree." "Black and gold coral are rare and often bleached." key topics Definition of organic materials History of coral harvesting and trade Types of coral: precious, soft, fossilised, black and gold Identification and authenticity of coral in jewelry Regulations and sustainability in coral trade Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Coral and Organic Materials 02:53 The Importance of Organic Materials 05:14 Coral Fishing in History 07:57 Understanding Coral Polyps 10:32 The Journey of Coral Harvesting 13:03 Regulations and Sustainability in Coral Harvesting 15:33 Coral as a Jewelry Material 18:03 Types of Coral and Their Significance 21:50 Identifying Coral: Key Features and Characteristics 24:33 Understanding Soft Coral: Misleading Names and Textures 26:42 Fossilised Coral: The Transformation Process 28:20 Exploring Black and Gold Coral: Unique Properties and Origins 32:17 Coral Conservation: The Impact of Overfishing and Regulations 34:44 Closing Thoughts: The Beauty and Importance of Coral resources Gemmology by C. D. M. Roberts - https://www.amazon.com/Gemmology-C-D-M-Roberts/dp/XXXXXX CITES - Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species - https://cites.org/ Coral Museum in Naples, Italy - https://www.coralmuseumnaples.it/ https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology guest links Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod coral, gemmology, organic materials, jewellery, coral harvesting, coral types, coral regulation, fossilised coral, coral history, coral identification Support the show
28. Colour: Pleochroism and Colour Filter Gem testing
Send us Fan Mail In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemmology instruments, focusing on colour filters like the Chelsea colour filter and pleochroism testing methods. Learn how these tools aid in gemstone identification and enhance gem cutting techniques. Educational key topics Colour filters in gemmology Chelsea colour filter purpose and use Pleochroism and its significance in gemstone identification Testing for pleochroism with London Dichroscope and calcite dichroscope Importance of light source and gemstone orientation in testing Natural vs synthetic gemstone identification techniques key frameworks Colour absorption principles Pleochroism and optical anisotropy Gemstone orientation and cutting strategies Titles Mastering Gemstone Identification: The Power of Colour Filters and Pleochroism Tests Unlocking Gem Secrets: Chelsea Filter and Pleochroism in Gemmology sound bites "Record your observation by stating the colour scene." "Always think about why you're looking at the stone." "Share your pleochroic observations with others." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Colour Filters in Gemmology 01:55 Understanding Pleochroism and Selective Absorption 05:27 Testing for Pleochroism with the London Dichroscope 10:34 Comparing the London Dichroscope and Calcite Dichroscope 15:36 Documenting Pleochroism Observations 17:35 Understanding Gemstone Colours and Pleochroism 20:04 The Chelsea Colour Filter: A Gemstone Testing Tool 26:23 Practical Applications of the Chelsea Colour Filter 28:50 Identifying Gemstones: Colour Responses and Observations resources Gem-A - https://www.gem-a.com Pleochroism in Gemstones (Book) - https://www.amazon.com/pleochroism-gemstones Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology Email - facetnation@facetnation.co.uk gemmology, colour filters, Chelsea filter, pleochroism, gemstone identification, gem testing, gem cutting, gemmology tools Support the show
27. Jadeite: A Cultural Icon
Send us Fan Mail This episode explores the fascinating world of jadeite, covering its geology, colours, treatments, cultural significance, and the latest gemological insights. Hosted by gemmologists Lucinda and Simon, it offers a deep dive into one of the most revered gemstones across cultures. key topics Jadeite vs Nephrite Colours and Varieties of Jadeite Treatments and Impostors in Jadeite Cultural Significance of Jade in China and Central America Geology and Formation of Jadeite Titles Jadeite Unveiled: 10 Facts Every Gemologist Should Know The Hidden World of Jadeite: From Burma to Central America sound bites "Imperial Jade is the poster child for jadeite" "Mining jadeite involves cutting into massive boulders" "Testing includes SG, hardness, and visual clues" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Jadeite 02:54 The Complexity of Jadeite 05:43 Understanding Jadeite's Properties 08:39 The Formation and Sources of Jadeite 11:20 Cultural Significance and Jewellery of Jadeite 14:08 Impostors and Imitations of Jadeite 18:40 Testing and Identifying Jadeite 26:46 Exploring Literature and Its Influence 28:01 Understanding Specific Gravity in Gemmology 29:59 Testing Gem Hardness and Its Implications 31:30 Refractive Index: A Key to Gem Identification 33:28 The Complex World of Jade Treatments 39:14 Cultural Significance of Jade in China 51:31 Jade's Historical Importance in Central America Resources Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com Real Jade Co. - https://realjade.com Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology jadeite, gemmology, gemstones, jade, mineralogy, treatments, cultural significance, Guatemala jade, gem identification Support the show
26. Interview: Andrew Geoghegan - Jewellery Design, Branding and Keeping it Real
Send us Fan Mail Join us as we explore the journey of jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan, from childhood fascination with treasure to creating innovative collections inspired by history and nature. Discover insights on craftsmanship, branding, and staying authentic in a digital world. key topics Andy Geoghegan's early fascination with treasure and jewellery The journey from university to professional jewellery design The importance of authenticity and personal style in branding Inspiration from history, nature, and personal experiences Challenges and insights in modern jewellery marketing guest name Andrew Geoghegan Titles From Childhood Mischief to Jewellery Mastery: Andrew Geoghegan's Creative Journey Unlocking the Secrets of Gem Setting and Jewellery Design sound bites "That moment sparked my love for jewellery" "The use of colour in jewellery is about expression" "Finding that relic was like discovering treasure" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Andrew Geoghegan 01:20 The Journey Begins: Early Memories of Jewellery 02:57 From Art College to Jewellery Design 09:10 Building the Brand: The Early Days 11:32 Navigating Challenges and Perseverance 16:22 The Digital Age: Marketing Jewellery Today 23:56 Design Inspirations and Client Connections 30:08 The Art of Craftsmanship in Jewellery 34:06 Innovative Use of Colour in Jewellery Design 36:59 Embracing Individuality in Gemstone Choices 37:21 Inspiration from Nature and History 42:33 The Thrill of Treasure Hunting 48:44 Launching the Treowth Collection resources Susannah King on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/ The Detectorists (TV Series) - https://www.netflix.com/title/80064446 Gemology Resources - https://www.gia.edu/ Jewelry Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jewelry+design guest links Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/andrewgeoghegan/ https://andrewgeoghegan.com/ jewellery design, gemmology, jewellery collection, craftsmanship, branding, authenticity, goldsmithing, gemstone, jewellery inspiration, digital marketing Support the show
25. Interview: Wim Vertriest - GIA Field Gemmology, Gem Identification and Mozambique Rubies
Send us Fan Mail Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones. Key topics Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market Guest name Wim Vertriest Titles The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA sound bites "Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem." "Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues." "My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background 02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology 05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology 07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins 10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies 12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones 15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness 17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection 20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology 23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires 24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions 26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps 27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity 29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination 30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion 33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones 39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments 44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones 46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology 48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies 52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining 58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies 01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology resources GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest Guest links LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science Support the show
24. Colour: The Spectroscope and Selective Absorption in Gems
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of gemmology, focusing on the spectroscope and its critical role in identifying gemstones. They discuss the different types of spectroscopes, techniques for using them, and the importance of diagnostic spectra in gem identification. The conversation is rich with insights into the nuances of color absorption and the practical applications of these tools in the field. The hosts also share personal anecdotes and tips for gem enthusiasts, making the episode both informative and engaging. Takeaways The spectroscope is essential for identifying gemstones. There are two main types of handheld spectroscopes: prism and diffraction grating. Using a spectroscope can help you understand how gemstones absorb light. Techniques for using a spectroscope include transmitted and reflected light methods. Diagnostic spectra are crucial for identifying specific gemstones. Understanding colour absorption helps in gem identification. The spectroscope can be used on both rough and polished stones. Learning the diagnostic spectra of gemstones is beneficial for gemmologists. The conversation emphasises the importance of practical experience in gemmology. Future episodes will cover more advanced topics in gemmology. "We're going to talk about the spectroscope." "It's a really good one." "You can't see it, but it's there." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Recent Finds 02:06 Exploring the Spectroscope: A Gemmologist's Tool 11:16 Understanding Dispersion and Diffraction in Gemstones 18:39 Techniques for Using the Spectroscope 22:31 Diagnostic Spectra and Their Importance 26:53 The Art of Writing and Dashes 29:41 Understanding Spectrums: Zircon and Ruby 32:18 Emerald and Alexandrite Spectrums 35:03 Synthetic and Natural Sapphires 37:28 Exploring Iron Spectrums in Gemstones 40:03 The Spectrum of Garnets and Jadeite 42:42 Cobalt Spectrums: Spinel and Glass 45:31 Rare Earth Elements and Red Glass 47:59 Diamonds and Their Unique Spectra gemmology, spectroscope, gemstones, diagnostic spectra, colour absorption, gem identification, gemmology techniques, gem enthusiasts, gem collectors, gemstone analysis, gemology Support the show
23. Colour: An introduction
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of the Facet nation gemmology podcast, Lucinda and Simon explore the intricate world of colour in gemstones. They discuss the significance of colour in determining the value of gemstones, the science of light and how it interacts with materials to create colour, and the chemical elements responsible for these hues. The conversation also covers the colour wheel and its relevance to gemstones, the methods of analysing gemstones through spectroscopy, and the perception of colour. The episode concludes with a teaser for future discussions on more complex topics related to colour in gemmology. Takeaways Colour is the most important aspect of coloured gemstones. The value of gemstones is influenced by colour, history, and trends. Light is essential for colour perception in gemstones. Selective absorption determines the colour we see in gemstones. Eight chemical elements are responsible for colour in gemstones. The colour wheel helps understand colour relationships in gemstones. Not all light sources are suitable for gemstone analysis. Spectroscopy is a key tool in analysing gemstone colours. Understanding the science of colour enhances appreciation for gemstones. Future episodes will explore more complex topics in gemmology. Titles Exploring the Colour Spectrum of Gemstones The Science Behind Gemstone Colours Sound bites "Everything comes back to light." "Not all white light is created equal." "If there is no light, does colour exist?" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology 01:50 The Importance of Colour in Gemstones 04:34 Understanding Light and Colour 09:11 Chemical Elements and Colour 12:29 The Colour Wheel and Its Application 16:15 Spectroscopy and Light Sources 21:16 Conclusion and Future Topics gemstones, colour, light, spectroscopy, chemical elements, colour wheel, gemmology, ruby, sapphire, emerald Support the show
22. Interview: Justin Prim - gemcutter, author, teacher and historian
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books. Find out more: https://www.magusgems.com https://www.facetingapprentice.com Takeaways Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting. He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show. Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting. Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut. The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail. Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters. Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting. He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum. The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones. Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters. Titles From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim Sound bites "I want to keep cutting." "I love cutting emeralds." "It's a mystery." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting 05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade 09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community 11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary 14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting 16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School 20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting 23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business 25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone 27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems 29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting 31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques 33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation 36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum 38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching 42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques 47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting 52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones 54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds 56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer 58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making 01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones 01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum Support the show
21. Interview: Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury. Montana Sapphires and more
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones. Takeaways Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him. Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires. Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities. The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations. Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market. The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences. Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones. There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones. Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations. The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance. Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone. Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion. The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco. Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs. Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones. Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal. Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones. Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography. The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love. Titles The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery Sound bites "I try to minimise the waste." "They look awesome." "I love all gems equally." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology 08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution 12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution 19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery 23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones 27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines 29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires 31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting 33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration 37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs 42:38 The World of Photomicrography 47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year 49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography 52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature 53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology 56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book 58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem tren Support the show
20. The Refractometer: Gem testing and how it works
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology. Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool. Keywords gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science Takeaways The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones. Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings. Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer. Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results. Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer. Titles Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer Sound bites "Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon." "Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard." "When in doubt, get your refractometer out." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer 01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance 04:53 How the Refractometer Works 10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing 14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings 19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance 22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones 25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials 28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques 32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer 36:29 House Rules for Refractometry 41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use Support the show
19. Gemmology Exam Preparation: What to expect
Send us Fan Mail In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates. Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety. Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding. Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best. Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding. Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge. Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision. Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance. The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed. It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge. Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety. Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights Sound bites "I was really worried about the practical." "You can get two wrong and still pass." "I still have dreams about it." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety 02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams 05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam 07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques 10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology 13:27 Tips for Early Preparation 15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision 18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers 21:29 Final Week Preparations 24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset 32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges 37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies 41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections 51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety 55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates Support the show
