Taqueando with Bill Esparza

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Alex Garcia of Evil Cooks to talk about the restaurant’s evolution from a backyard pop-up into one of Los Angeles’ most distinctive Mexican restaurants, and the return of Disciples of the Corn, an ambitious dinner celebrating the food of all 32 states of Mexico. Alex shares the story behind the event, the chaos of pulling it off, and this year’s lineup of chefs including Ray Garcia and Tomás Ortega, while opening up about his partnership with Elvia, his heavy-metal ethos and the life experiences that shaped Evil Cooks. Plus, in this week’s Antojitos, Bill recaps a Los Angeles food crawl with Nithya Raman through Evil Cooks, Distrito Catorce and Casa Gish Bac; makes the case for where to find truly great caldo, pozole and menudo in LA; visits the Guatemalan night market; and breaks down the ultimate Hollywood Bowl food experience. Somehow, there’s also room for Sheila E., the Commodores, Kenny G., smooth jazz slander and some very strong opinions about aging rock stars. Produced by Robert Haleblian.

What happens when a former employee leaves one of LA’s most acclaimed restaurants and opens a place that looks… remarkably familiar? Bill Esparza and Robert Haleblian dig into Goldfish Seafood in Orange County, the restaurant they argue borrows heavily from Michelin-starred Holbox , from the menu and plating to the logo and overall aesthetic, and debate where inspiration ends and straight-up copying begins. Plus, Bill recaps Taqueando After Dark, one of the best fine-dining fish tacos he’s ever had, and a star-studded This Is About Humanity fundraiser.

Bill Esparza spent more than a year helping The New York Times build its list of the 41 greatest Mexican restaurants in America . This week, Rob flips the script and interviews Bill about how the list came together, why so many “best Mexican restaurant” lists get the country wrong, and what he found crisscrossing America in search of regional Mexican cooking, from al pastor in Charlotte and gorditas in Chicago to an unexpected Aguascalientes community in Oklahoma City. Plus, Bill breaks down why Mariscos Jalisco, Valle, Mercado La Paloma and other California standouts made the cut, what makes a restaurant “great” rather than simply famous, and why some of the most exciting Mexican food in America is happening far outside the cities people usually look. Produced (and co-hosted!) by Robert Haleblian .

On Episode 69 of Taqueando, Bill Esparza returns from Barcelona with a challenge to the way Americans talk about Spanish food: Michelin-starred temples may dazzle, but they’re only part of the story, and the country’s simplest dishes lose something essential when removed from their context. He moves from a spectacular tasting menu at Esperit Roca in Girona to bocadillos, tortillas, croquetas, conservas, rice dishes, vermouth and the no-nonsense neighborhood bars most food tourists overlook, asking whether great food can ever be separated from the place and people that give it meaning. Then Bill sits down with Coco Montes, chef of Michelin-starred PABÚ in Madrid, after watching him discover California’s extraordinary produce at the Santa Barbara farmers market. Montes brings French technique shaped by Alain Passard’s L’Arpège to a produce-first, microseasonal restaurant that changes its menu daily and is run alongside his mother, Rita González. It’s an episode about destination dining versus everyday eating, technical ambition versus simplicity, and what it really means to taste Spain. Produced by Robert Haleblian Buy your tickets to Taqueando After Dark

Chef Jonathan Zaragoza joins Bill Esparza to trace his journey from his family’s acclaimed Birrieria Zaragoza and Michelin-starred Chicago kitchens to Goatboy International, Salsa 101 and America’s Test Kitchen. They dig into the unwritten rules of Mexican salsa, salsa falsa, regional birria, fully loaded Ensenada fish tacos and Jonathan’s controversial belief that brioche buns don’t belong on burgers. Jonathan also shares why he spoke out against ICE, reflects on his family’s immigration story and previews his forthcoming cookbook and a possible return to Chicago restaurants, while Bill announces Taqueando After Dark at Level 8 in Downtown Los Angeles.Produced by Robert Haleblian

Los Angeles mayoral candidate and City Councilmember Nithya Raman joins Bill Esparza at Las Margaritas in Boyle Heights to explain how she would confront the crisis facing LA restaurants, street vendors and small businesses. Raman lays out plans to accelerate restaurant permitting, simplify outdoor dining and liquor approvals, protect immigrant communities during ICE raids, reduce homelessness and illegal dumping, preserve legacy restaurants, revive Hollywood production, and ensure the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics benefit local operators. Plus, she addresses the Lineage fire, housing affordability and City Hall accountability before sharing her favorite Los Angeles restaurants, including Saffy’s, Ruen Pair and Restaurante Tierra Caliente. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

Gabriela Cámara has brought the spirit of Mexico City’s legendary Contramar to the Las Vegas Strip. In this episode, Bill Esparza explores Cantina Contramar at Fontainebleau Las Vegas, the acclaimed chef and restaurateur’s first U.S. expansion of Contramar. Bill examines how the new restaurant translates Contramar’s seafood-driven cooking and lively cantina energy for Las Vegas, from its iconic tuna tostada and pescado a la talla to fresh tortillas and dishes created specifically for the Strip. Does Cantina Contramar preserve what made the Roma Norte original a global dining destination, or has Las Vegas turned it into something entirely its own? Plus, Bill announces Taqueando After Dark , a two-night taco pop-up happening August 27 and 28 at Level 8 inside the Moxy in Downtown Los Angeles. Expect taqueros from Baja California and Los Angeles, seven to eight taquerías, and one ticket to taste every taco. Taqueando is hosted by James Beard Award-winning food writer Bill Esparza and explores Mexican food, tacos, restaurants and the people shaping how we eat across Los Angeles, Mexico and beyond. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

Before Mexico City became one of the world’s most celebrated dining destinations, Daniel Ovadia was helping create its modern culinary identity. He opened the groundbreaking restaurant Paxia at just 21 years old, serving ambitious Mexican tasting menus, artisanal mezcal and even an all-taco menu years before those ideas became fashionable. Daniel joins Bill Esparza to revisit the early days of Paxia and Pujol, the resistance he faced serving tacos and pozole in a fine-dining restaurant, and why an entire generation of Mexican chefs developed such distinct culinary voices. He also explains why he eventually walked away from the awards-driven fine-dining world, why he believes social media has made restaurants more repetitive, and how he found a new purpose building Peltre in Mexico City and the Michelin-recognized Punta Corcho in Puerto Morelos. Plus, Daniel shares his essential Mexico City markets and restaurants, the traditional techniques that shaped Paxia, and why Puerto Morelos remains one of the Mexican Caribbean’s best-kept culinary secrets. Bill also announces the return of his taco festival with Taqueando After Dark, coming to Level 8 in downtown Los Angeles on August 27 and 28. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

Where can you find the best ceviche, aguachile and Mexican seafood in Los Angeles? Bill Esparza drops his definitive LA mariscos guide, explaining why great seafood requires more than an overflowing aluminum tray, a backyard location or a pile of lime and salsa. Bill breaks down the three pillars of Mexican mariscos: the barra fría, barra caliente and parrilla. He explains why Mexican ceviche is driven by pristine seafood and regional product, how it differs from Peru’s technique-focused tradition, and which warning signs reveal bad shrimp, careless knife work and past-its-prime callo de hacha. The guide covers Muelle Ocho, Mariscos El Faro, Mariscos Chiltepin, Cahuamanta Lao, Coni’Seafood and the essential shrimp taco at Mariscos Jalisco, along with modern destinations including Holbox, Ceviche Project, San Damián and Loreto. Plus, Bill calls out influencer misconceptions, reveals where to find LA’s best aguachiles and pescado zarandeado, and explains the proper way to build, sauce and edge a tostada. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

Somebody Feed Phil host Phil Rosenthal joins Bill Esparza at Max & Helen’s, his Los Angeles diner created with Nancy Silverton, for a wide-ranging conversation about food, travel and the value of remaining curious. Phil reveals why Somebody Feed Phil is leaving Netflix for YouTube, calls out the negativity and rage bait driving food-influencer culture, and finally learns why filming pirated DVDs during their legendary Tepito taco crawl nearly got the entire crew kicked out. Bill also asks the legendary comedy writer to judge his official Dos Equis “legend line”: “When there’s no line at Max & Helen’s, people wait eight hours just out of respect.” Plus, Phil and Bill debate whether LA pizza has caught up with New York, explain why Los Angeles has America’s best Mexican food, revisit cow-udder and beef-lung tacos, and discuss the restaurants Phil believes are defining the city’s food scene, from Pizzana and Pizzeria Sei to Courage Bagels and Max & Helen’s. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

In this episode of Taqueando , Bill Esparza sits down at Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside with Chef Roberto Alcocer , the Ensenada-born chef behind Valle and the beloved Baja restaurant Malva . Roberto reflects on his early days cooking in France, Puebla, and Pujol, the once-intimate rise of Valle de Guadalupe, and how Baja’s seafood, wine, and farm-to-table culture helped shape modern Mexican fine dining. The conversation dives deep into the past, present, and future of Valle de Guadalupe, from the early days of Laja, Corazón de Tierra, Manzanilla, Malva, Vendimias, and true wine-country community to today’s challenges with overdevelopment, hotels, party tourism, rising prices, and the fight to protect the region’s identity. Roberto also discusses earning a Michelin star at Valle, why San Diego diners are still learning what Baja and contemporary Mexican cuisine can be, and why he believes Malva may soon return in a new form. Plus, Roberto shares where to stay, eat, and drink right now in Valle de Guadalupe, with recommendations for Mira Earth Studios, Adobe Guadalupe, Envero, Lunario, Damiana, Animalón, La Opah del Güero, Escama, and more. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

At Alto in Studio City, chefs Juana Castellanos Lagemann and Esteban Klenzi are bringing the food and fire traditions of Argentina, Uruguay and the Río de la Plata to Los Angeles in a way the city has never experienced before. Bill Esparza joins the duo to discuss their journey from some of the world’s most demanding fine-dining kitchens to Ventura Boulevard, why asado should be cooked over glowing coals instead of open flames, and how they are elevating their culture without stripping away its soul. They also explain why you should never order short rib medium rare, what makes a truly great empanada, how the parrillero’s relationship with fire differs from that of a typical grill cook, and where to eat in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Plus, the chefs introduce Alto’s immersive Pampa Omakase, a communal feast inspired by the joyful, smoky ritual of a South American family asado. Produced by Robert Haleblian .

In Part 2 of Bill Esparza’s intimate conversation with chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid , the two dig deeper into Matriarca , her growing Mexican pantry brand built around clean ingredients, traditional cooking and the belief that Mexican families deserve beautiful, high-quality products rooted in their own culture. Marcela breaks down Matriarca’s expanding lineup, from organic fideo, masa harina and salsa macha to heirloom beans, dried chiles and ingredients sourced directly from producers across Mexico. She also discusses making tortillas from scratch, the wellness industry’s failure to speak to Mexican women, the rising cost of dining in Valle de Guadalupe and why preserving language, recipes and culinary traditions still matters. Plus, Marcela and Bill debate tamal versus tamale , share their favorite Chula Vista and Tijuana food memories and reflect on nearly two decades of friendship. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian .

In Part 1 of a two-part conversation , chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid welcomes Bill Esparza into her Chula Vista home for an intimate look back at her journey from Tijuana’s culinary world to becoming one of the Food Network’s most recognizable Mexican chefs. Over a pot of fideo seco, Marcela opens up about fighting for authentic Mexican representation on television, the pressure of being reduced to Cinco de Mayo segments and the lack of support she experienced as a working mother. She also reflects on leaving food television, rebuilding her career through wildly successful online cooking classes and creating Matriarca , her new Mexican pantry brand centered on clean, thoughtfully sourced versions of the foods she grew up eating. This is only the beginning. Part 2 of Bill and Marcela’s conversation continues next week. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian .

This week on Taqueando with Bill Esparza , Bill sits down at one of Los Angeles’ most iconic Mexican American restaurants, Casa Vega , with owner Christy Vega and Nayomie Mendoza , owner of Cuernavaca’s Grill , for a conversation about legacy, survival, margaritas, wet burritos, taquitos, salsa, and what it really takes to preserve an LA institution. From Casa Vega’s 70-year history in Sherman Oaks to Cuernavaca’s rise as a community-driven Mexican American restaurant in the Fashion District, this episode digs into the food culture that shaped Los Angeles: chips and salsa, oven-style burritos, chile rellenos, crispy taquitos, big margaritas, celebrity regulars, family ownership, and the generational weight of keeping a restaurant alive. Bill, Christy, and Nayomie also talk about why Mexican American food deserves respect on its own terms, how LA’s classic restaurants survived COVID, fires, strikes, ICE raids, influencer backlash, and impossible operating conditions, and why places like Casa Vega and Cuernavaca’s Grill are not just restaurants. They are memory banks for the city. Plus: Casa Vega’s World Cup specials, Cuernavaca’s Grill joining the FIFA Fan Fest at the LA Coliseum, Casa Vega’s upcoming Baja patio takeover, and why the best way to experience these restaurants is simple: order the margarita, get the taquitos, add the salsa, and have a good time. Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando , Bill Esparza heads to Canter’s Deli to talk with Marc Canter about the deep history between Jewish delis, Boyle Heights, East LA, Fairfax, and Los Angeles’ Mexican American love affair with pastrami. From pastrami burritos and pastrami fries to the survival of old-school LA delis, the conversation traces how Canter’s helped shape one of the city’s most unexpected food connections: Jewish deli culture through a Chicano lens. Then Bill is joined by Lisa Wahl of Lisa Eats LA to unpack “Bagel Gate,” the viral Threads debate sparked by Bill’s claim that bagels are just bread . Together, they get into LA’s current bagel boom, New York food superiority complexes, Vietnamese and Mexican bread cultures, Courage Bagels, Canter’s old-school bagels, and why Los Angeles doesn’t need to become New York to have great food. Produced by Robert Haleblian

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Xrysw Ruelas of Xokol , the Michelin-starred Guadalajara restaurant she runs with Chef Oscar Segundo. They discuss Xokol’s evolution from a humble molino and antojería into one of Mexico’s most important modern Mexican restaurants, rooted in heirloom corn, indigenous knowledge, the milpa, and the culinary traditions of Jalisco and Estado de México. Xrysw also shares her guide to eating in Guadalajara, including tacos, tortas ahogadas, mariscos, bars, Santa Tere, Nejayote, and why Guadalajara remains one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities. Produced by Robert Haleblian.

This week on Taqueando , Bill Esparza takes on the messy new era of LA food influencers, anti-influencers, restaurant grifters, and the viral claim that “LA dining is a scam.” He breaks down the Christian Garcia /Hollywood Thai controversy, the rise of outrage-based restaurant content, and why struggling small restaurants are especially vulnerable when influencers promise exposure but may not deliver. Bill is joined by Katie Molinaro of Eat It Katie for a sharp conversation about influencer backlash, Comfy with Kerry , performative restaurant criticism, and what happens when creators turn dining into a joyless hunt for bad bites. They also dig into Kerry’s viral Casa Vega review, why Bill sees Casa Vega as more than just an old-school celebrity hangout, and how Mexican American institutions carry history, nostalgia, and community meaning that can get flattened by click-driven content. It’s a fiery, funny, deeply personal episode about LA restaurants, food media, cultural ignorance, affordability, and the difference between real criticism and content built for engagement. From Hollywood Thai to Casa Vega, from grifters to “LA dining is a scam,” Bill asks the bigger question: who actually benefits when restaurants become punching bags for the algorithm? Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando , Bill Esparza heads back to Hermosillo, Sonora with chef, writer, and cookbook author Noah Galuten and Sonoran culinary investigator Eloy Alvarez Uribe for a deep dive into carne asada, grilling culture, and the food traditions of Northern Mexico. Noah discusses his new cookbook Grill Time , how a research trip to Sonora changed the way he thinks about carne asada, and why true Sonoran grilling is about much more than meat on fire. Eloy breaks down what makes Hermosillo’s carne asada culture so singular, from high-quality beef and flour tortillas to mesquite charcoal, chile colorado, refried beans, and the foodways shaped by life in the desert. Plus, the crew gets into Bahia de Kino seafood, bacanora, LA breakfast burritos, New York bagels, Mexican breakfast in Los Angeles, and why Sonora still doesn’t get the respect it deserves. - Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Jonatan Gómez Luna , the chef behind Le Chique, one of Mexico’s most ambitious and influential fine dining destinations. Recorded at Hotel Xcaret Arte in Playa del Carmen, this conversation explores the launch of Le Chique 2.0 — a bold, 27-course tasting menu that blends cutting-edge technique with deep Mexican tradition. Jonatan shares his journey from Mexico City to working in some of the world’s most celebrated kitchens, including El Celler de Can Roca and Noma, and how those experiences shaped his approach to modern Mexican cuisine. The discussion dives into the evolution of Mexico’s culinary identity, why the country is now a global destination for chefs, and how technique should always serve one thing above all else: flavor. They also unpack the philosophy behind Le Chique’s immersive dining experience, the balance between tradition and innovation, and why Mexico’s next generation of chefs may not need to leave the country to learn anymore. Plus, Jonatan shares his favorite local spots in Playa del Carmen — from street tacos to hidden ceviche stands you won’t find on any guide. If you care about the future of Mexican food, tasting menus, or where global fine dining is headed next, this is a must-listen. -- Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara , your luxury hotel destination on the American Riviera.