The Surf Strong Show

What does surfing teach us about moving through life with more presence, clarity and trust? Alexa Marie joins Greg Finch for a story-forward conversation about the waves that stay with us and why surfing can become far more than recreation. Alexa shares how a friend’s before-school surf session first opened her imagination, how she found her way from inland Orange County to Doheny, and how joining a high-school surf team helped make the ocean part of her life. She reflects on surfing as a spiritual practice and a place to reconnect with herself, recharge from the demands of entrepreneurship, and return to everyday life with more energy. The conversation explores the shift from pressure and competition toward presence and fun, how breathing and grounding help Alexa meet both waves and life’s bigger moments, and why surfing can train our capacity to enter a flow state without running through a mental checklist. Alexa also shares the advice she received from Cheryl, a longtime Doheny surfer: “Stay high on the wave.” It became both a surfing cue and a way to work with the emotional waves that show up beyond the water. For surfers who understand that a session can shape far more than the time spent riding waves. Connect with Alexa Marie: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alexaaligned/ Masterclass: https://masterclass.shealignsnow.com/ The Surf Strong Show: Podcast: https://surfstrongfit.com/podcast Instagram: https://instagram.com/surfstrongforlife YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@surfstrongforlife

Henry Dittman is an actor, host, voice actor, surfer, dad, and co-host of ClipCast with Chris Wylde. He joins Greg Finch on The Surf Strong Show for an It Comes in Waves conversation about the waves that stay with us, the way surfing can change the direction of a life, and why getting back in the water after time away can feel like coming home. Henry starts with the wave he still daydreams about: a session at Turtle Bay while shooting an independent film in Hawaii. After years of quoting Blue Crush with his surf crew, he found himself working alongside Chris Taloa, paddling out on the North Shore, catching a long wave at Turtle Bay, and walking straight from the water into hair, makeup, and wardrobe with sand still on his feet. From there, the conversation moves into Henry’s most recent wave: his first real surf session after nearly nine months out of the water during a major home renovation, a double hernia, pneumonia, and the full grind of family life. What could have been an average El Porto beach break session became one of those days that reminds you surfing never really leaves. Greg and Henry talk about surfing as stillness, stress relief, identity, family, aging, movement, breath, mobility, and the shift from chasing perfect sessions to staying connected for life. They also get into dawn patrol, surf travel, fatherhood, youth sports, learning when not to surf, and why consistency matters more than waiting for perfect conditions. This is a grounded, funny, and deeply surf-connected conversation about what surfing gives us — and why the wave you remember most is not always the biggest, cleanest, or most impressive one. Sometimes it is the one that brings you back to yourself. In this episode: Henry’s first wave and how surfing helped shift his life and acting career The Turtle Bay wave he still daydreams about from a Hawaii film shoot Surfing with Chris Taloa after years of quoting Blue Crush Henry’s first session back after nine months out of the water Why imperfect waves can still deliver the deepest stoke Surfing, water immersion, stillness, and mental reset Movement, breath, and mobility as daily surf-readiness habits Fatherhood, aging, and staying ready to surf with your kids Why surf trips require more than just paddling fitness Letting surfing evolve without losing the core of what it gives you Guest Links: Henry Dittman on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/henrydittman/ Henry Dittman on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/henrydittman ClipCast on Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/clipcast-the-best-clippers-podcast/id574649000 Surf Strong For Life Links: Apply for 1:1 surf fitness coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start Surf Strong For Life: https://surfstrongfit.com/ The Surf Strong Show is hosted by Greg Finch, surf longevity coach and founder of Surf Strong For Life, helping surfers build strength, mobility, breath control, paddle endurance, and confidence so they can stay surf-ready for decades.

Actor, comedian, surfer, and ClipCast host Chris Wylde joins Greg Finch on The Surf Strong Show for an “It Comes in Waves” conversation about surfing, fatherhood, patience, and the waves that stay with us. Chris shares the story of his most recent wave at Rincon with his son — a small, uncrowded day that turned into one of those long, quiet, soul-surfing rides you do not want to ruin by paddling back out too soon. From there, the conversation moves through New Jersey beach culture, learning to surf at Blacks Beach on a board that made no sense for a beginner, life in Redondo Beach, and the connection between acting and surfing. Chris talks about how the “hurry up and wait” rhythm of working on film and television sets mirrors time in the lineup: long stretches of patience, followed by moments where you have to be ready immediately. Greg and Chris also get into surfing with your kids, knowing your limits in the ocean, longboarding footwork, cross-stepping, and why practicing movement patterns out of the water can help surfers feel more confident when wave time is limited. This episode is funny, human, surf-connected, and full of the kind of stories that remind us why surfing stays with us for life. In this episode: - Chris’s last wave at Rincon - Surfing with his son - Growing up “down the shore” in New Jersey - Learning to surf at Blacks Beach - How surfing teaches patience and presence - The overlap between acting, timing, and surfing - Longboarding footwork and the “dad bunny hop” - Why dry-land reps matter for better movement in the water - The unforgettable left Chris still daydreams about Guest Links: Chris Wylde: https://www.chriswylde.com/ Chris Wylde on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943699/ Chris Wylde on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/ChrisWylde ClipCast on Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/clipcast-the-best-clippers-podcast/id574649000 ClipCast on Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/7Aia6OpSRcdTjv15aTtQ8v ClipCast on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laclipcast/ Surf Strong Links: Apply for 1:1 surf fitness coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start Surf Strong For Life: https://surfstrongfit.com/ The Surf Strong Show is hosted by Greg Finch, surf longevity coach and founder of Surf Strong For Life, helping surfers build strength, mobility, breath control, paddle endurance, and confidence so they can stay surf-ready for decades.

n this episode of The Surf Strong Show , Greg sits down with Barrett Perlman — former professional wakeboarder, surfer, transformation coach, and spiritual guide — for a conversation about surfing, breath, meditation, confidence, and what it really means to stay present in the ocean. Barrett shares her path from professional wakeboarding to surfing, including the early frustration of learning to paddle, read waves, and surrender to an environment where no two waves are ever the same. She also reflects on a long backside right in Morocco that still lives in her memory as one of those waves that changes how you see surfing. From there, the conversation moves into the deeper side of surf longevity: breath control, hold-down anxiety, paddle endurance, pop-up mechanics, and learning how to stay calm when the ocean puts you under pressure. Greg and Barrett also talk about dry-land surf training, video review, adapting your pop-up to your own body, and why having fun matters just as much as “getting reps.” This episode is for surfers who want to keep surfing for life — with more strength, mobility, confidence, awareness, and connection to the ocean. Listen now and follow The Surf Strong Show for more conversations on surf fitness, longevity, resilience, and ocean-connected living. Links Connect with Barrett Perlman Instagram: @barrettperlman Work with Greg / Surf Strong For Life 1:1 Surf Fitness Coaching: surfstrongfit.com/start

Summary In this inspiring interview, Shiloh Strong shares his transformative journey through personal health crises, the power of surfing as a source of resilience, and the impactful work of Ashes to Films, a nonprofit supporting creatives affected by disasters. Discover how storytelling, community, and creative healing can turn trauma into hope. Keywords Resilience, Surfing, Creative Healing, Ashes to Films, Personal Transformation, Disaster Recovery, Mental Health, Community Support, Filmmaking, Inspiration Key Topics Personal transformation through health crises The role of surfing in mental resilience The mission and impact of Ashes to Films Guest Name Shiloh Strong Sound bites "The Vanagon is almost the perfect vehicle." "The surgery was life-saving." "Reduce resistance, just go." Chapters 00:00 Surfing Memories and Personal Connections 01:39 The Significance of the Vanagon 03:38 Life Changes and Heart Surgery 03:39 Growing Up Between Two Landscapes 05:57 The Healing Power of Surfing 08:36 Transition to Santa Barbara and the Fire Incident 10:47 The Impact of Loss and Community Support 13:38 Introducing Ashes to Films 16:03 Creative Recovery Through Filmmaking 18:56 The Journey of Ashes to Films 21:48 Empowering Filmmakers Post-Fire 25:21 Evolving Perspectives on Time and Creativity 27:10 Finding Balance in Passion and Life 29:59 Reducing Resistance to Enjoy Life 33:15 Navigating Digital Distractions 36:37 Life-Altering Health Challenges 40:55 The Transformative Power of Daily Rituals 46:00 Redefining Success and Creativity 49:14 Building Resilience Through Creativity 55:46 Podcast Outro.mp4 Resources Ashes to Films Website - https://ashestofilms.org Tribeca Film Festival - https://tribecafilm.com Writers Guild of America - https://www.wga.org Director's Guild of America - https://www.dga.org Sundance Film Festival - https://www.sundance.org Guest links Website - https://shilohstrong.com Twitter - https://twitter.com/shilohstrong Instagram - https://instagram.com/shilohstrong

Dr. Ashley Allen lives at a rare intersection: emergency medicine, integrative healing, chronic pain recovery, and surfing. In this conversation, we explore how her work as an ER doctor has shaped her understanding of stress, healing, and the mind-body connection—and how her own personal journey led her to look beyond conventional medicine alone. Dr. Ashley shares how practices like stillness, breath, mindfulness, and surfing can help people reconnect with themselves, reduce stress, and begin creating real change without feeling overwhelmed. We also talk about burnout in healthcare, the challenge of slowing down in a high-stress world, and why healing often starts with small, simple steps and a willingness to believe a different future is possible. This episode is a grounded, thoughtful look at what it means to care for the body, calm the nervous system, and take ownership of your path toward wellness. Takeaways Healing is not always about doing more. Often it starts by slowing down enough to listen. The mind-body connection plays a major role in stress, recovery, and long-term wellness. Small, consistent practices can create meaningful change without adding overwhelm. Surfing can be more than recreation—it can become part of a personal wellness practice. Healthcare providers need spaces and tools to process stress, avoid burnout, and stay connected to their own well-being. Belief in the possibility of change is often the first real step in a healing journey. Chapters 00:00 Surfing as Medicine, Escape, and Awareness 28:54 Making Surfing Part of a Wellness Practice 34:32 Beginning the Healing Journey 42:01 Mindfulness, Burnout, and Healing in Healthcare

Life gets busy. Motivation comes and goes. That’s why I use BAMs (Bare @ss Minimums) —the non-negotiable baseline I hit daily so I stay surf-ready no matter what’s going on. In this episode, I break down a simple 3-phase BAM framework : Morning: set intention + lowest-friction start Midday: movement “snacks” to stay loose and strong Evening: decompress, reflect, and reset for tomorrow If you want surf longevity without overcomplicating your routine, start here: define your BAMs and hit them daily. Listen to more episodes here: https://surfstrongfit.com/podcast Apply for Surf Strong For Life Exclusive Coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start Key Topics Covered What “BAMs” are (and why they beat motivation) Choosing the day’s highest priority with less resistance Morning setup: intention + simple structure Midday movement: keeping joints and tissue “online” Evening reset: reflection, decompression, and continuity Takeaways Consistency wins when motivation fades—BAMs give you a baseline you can always complete. Define non-negotiables that support surf longevity: movement + breath + mindset. Start your day by identifying one highest-priority target (then protect it). Use midday movement snacks to reduce stiffness and maintain readiness. End the day with a short reset: decompress, reflect, and tee up tomorrow. Keep BAMs small enough to succeed daily, then build upward from there. Chapters / Timestamps 00:00 — What are BAMs (Bare @ss Minimums) 01:05 — Why life distraction kills consistency (and how BAMs fix it) 02:58 — Morning Phase: intention + lowest-friction start 04:20 — Picking the day’s highest priority (simple filter) 05:52 — Midday Phase: movement snacks to stay surf-ready 07:30 — Examples of quick movement / mobility check-ins 09:40 — Using breath + mindfulness to shift state fast 12:09 — Evening Phase: decompress, reflect, reset 13:30 — How to stay adaptable without losing the routine 14:20 — Simple challenge: define your BAMs and do them tomorrow

In this episode of the Surf Strong Show, Greg Finch shares a practical approach to shoulder recovery and shoulder prep for surfers. He explains why consistency with small habits matters more than occasional long sessions, and how breathing techniques can improve control and recovery—especially under stress. You’ll get a simple framework of mobility exercises and activation work to support shoulder stability, reduce flare-ups, and strengthen injury prevention habits that fit into real life. The goal: better sessions now, and long-term shoulder health for surfing longevity. Takeaways Consistency in the small things really matter. Focus on those small things and taking action. Building good habits is crucial for recovery. Breath improves everything, especially during stress. Don't rush through exercises; take your time. Focus on five minutes of practice to build consistency. No pain, no gain is counterintuitive to long-term health. Warm-up is essential to prevent shoulder injuries. Check in with your body before surfing to avoid discomfort. Put the time in now to reduce pain and discomfort. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Shoulder Prep and Recovery 05:04 Building Consistent Habits for Shoulder Health 14:55 Shoulder-Specific Exercises and Techniques 20:50 Conclusion and Long-Term Strategies for Surfing

Breathe Strong, Surf Strong: How Better Breath Transforms Your Surfing Episode Overview If you want to surf stronger, longer, and with a calmer mind, it starts with something you are doing all day anyway: breathing. In this episode of The Surf Strong Show , coach Greg Finch breaks down how breath impacts your surfing, your recovery, and your day-to-day stress levels. He explains why most modern breathing habits quietly work against performance, and shares simple, practical breath techniques you can plug into your routines in and out of the water. You will learn how to use breath to boost paddle endurance, calm your nervous system after heavy efforts, and stay present in the lineup when conditions or crowds start to spike your stress. Greg also explores how combining good posture, mindful breathing, and small daily “micro practices” can turn your sessions into repeatable training for both body and mind. “Breath is powerful on so many levels.” What You’ll Learn Why breath is one of the most underrated performance tools in surfing How to weave breath techniques into your daily routines to improve recovery The role of posture and alignment in effective breathing How mindfulness and breath work help manage stress, anxiety, and overwhelm Ways to practice breath in and out of the water so it shows up when you need it most How to use breath to stay calm under pressure in challenging surf or life moments Simple ways to extend your connection to the ocean with post-surf breathing rituals “Stay present, feel the wind and sand.” Episode Highlights The Power of Breath (00:00) Why breath is central to surf performance, focus, and long-term surf longevity. Modern Breathing Habits and Their Impact (04:24) How our daily lifestyle quietly trains shallow, inefficient breathing and what to do instead. Practical Breathing Techniques for Surfers (14:09) Simple, repeatable exercises you can use before, during, and after your sessions. Connecting Breath with Surfing (14:31) How to link breath to paddling, positioning, and staying composed in critical moments. Post-Surf Breath Practices (28:28) Ways to cool down, recover faster, and carry that ocean calm into the rest of your day. “Extend out the positive of the surf.” Take This Into Your Next Session Every paddle out is a chance to practice. Choose one breath technique from this episode, set a reminder on your phone, and use it: Before you check the surf While you are sitting in the lineup After your session as you towel off and head back to your day Your surf training is not just what happens in the gym or in big swell days. It is in how you breathe through all of it. If you want more tools to build breath endurance, recovery, and mental focus for surfing, make sure you grab Greg’s Surf Breath Checklist and keep training your breath to Surf Strong For Life.

Morning Micro Habits for Lifelong Surfing Surf Strong Show Express with Greg Finch Most surfers think they need a “perfect” 2-hour morning routine to level up their surfing. In this Surf Strong Show Express episode, Greg Finch makes the case for something way more realistic—and way more effective: 10–20 focused minutes of breath and movement that keep you surf-ready for life. Greg breaks down how to start your day in a way that actually supports your surfing, instead of just checking another box on a self-help checklist. You’ll hear why surfing is such a high-demand activity on your body and nervous system, and how a few simple micro habits can keep your movement, breath, and mobility tuned so you can keep paddling out for decades. You’ll also learn why your brain secretly wants you to stay on the couch, how to work with that resistance instead of fighting it, and why “First breath, not first screen” is one of the most powerful performance cues you can use—both in and out of the water. In this episode, we get into: Why routines are overhyped —and how to swap “perfect routine” pressure for simple, repeatable micro habits. The true demands of surfing on your movement, breath, and mobility—and what it really takes to maintain them as you age. “First breath, not first screen” – a simple morning reset that downshifts your nervous system and sets the tone for your whole day. A go-to breath pattern (4-second inhale, 6–8 second exhale) you can use in bed, in the lineup, in the car, or in the grocery store line. A quick Surf Strong Primer you can do in 5–10 minutes: Gentle spine + hip wake-up (cat–cow, hip circles, thoracic rotation) Deep squat holds to check in on your lower body Push-up / pop-up variations that don’t wreck your shoulders Dead bug / crawl-pattern core work that trains you to breathe under tension How tiny, consistent actions act like compounding interest for your surf fitness, resilience, and recovery. Why your “evolved mind” is wired to avoid effort—and how to design habits that sneak past that resistance. Who this episode is for This one’s especially for you if: You’re a surfer who wants to keep surfing hard into your 40s, 50s, 60s and beyond You feel stiff, tight, or beat-up in the mornings after a couple days of surf You keep meaning to start a morning routine but get overwhelmed or fall off quickly You want simple, doable structure—not another perfectionist plan you’ll abandon next week Big idea to take with you You don’t need a flawless two-hour routine. You need 10–20 intentional minutes that: Start with breath, not screens Wake up your hips, spine, and shoulders Remind your brain, “Hey, we’re surfers—we stay ready.” Come back to your breath. Come back to the fundamentals. Build from there. If you’d like help turning this into a tailored plan for your body, your schedule, and your surf goals, I’d love to help you map it out. If you're open to it, we could jump on a quick call this week, find out exactly where you are, what you want to achieve in your surfing, and lay out a plan to get you there.

Bianca Valenti is surfing the best waves of her life at 40. In this episode of the Surf Strong Show, she sits down with host Greg Finch to unpack what it really takes to keep charging big waves for decades—physically, mentally, and emotionally. Bianca shares how she structures her big-wave season between Mavericks and Hawaii, how she trains in the off-season, and why “just outside your comfort zone” is the sweet spot for growth in both surfing and life. She breaks down her daily surf-prep ritual—from warm salt water and massage gun routines to bands, foam rolling, and underwater weight training—and explains how small, consistent habits keep her ready for XXL swells. They dive into the mental side of big-wave surfing: managing fear, dealing with FOMO, recovering from burnout, and learning to pace yourself instead of going full throttle all the time. Bianca talks about balancing obsession with responsibility, rebuilding stoke, and playing the true long game of surf longevity. If you care about surfing strong for life—through movement, breath, mobility, and mindset—this conversation is a masterclass. If it resonates, subscribe, share this episode with a surf buddy, and check out all episodes of the Surf Strong Show for more surf-longevity training and support. Chapters / Timestamps 00:00 – Bianca’s Big-Wave Season: Mavericks, Hawaii & Warm Water 02:07 – Inside the Culture of Big-Wave Surfing 04:36 – Comfort Zones, Fear & the First 6-Inch Wave at Doheny 07:30 – Small Days, Reps & Staying Ready Between Swells 10:24 – Surfing as Mental Health, Ritual & Saying “Yes” 12:59 – Morning Routine: Warm Salt Water, Massage Gun & Paddle Prep 18:58 – Consistency, Micro-Habits & Recovery Done Right 21:49 – Pacing, Tapering & Listening to Your Body at 40+ 24:37 – Burnout, Balance & Rediscovering Stoke for the Long Game 32:18 – Inside the Eddie Aikau: Honor, Preparation & XXL Waimea Chaos

In this conversation, Marcelo shares his journey from a young surfer in El Salvador to becoming an Olympic coach and founder of Puro Surf. He discusses the importance of community, resilience, and personal growth through surfing. Marcelo emphasizes the evolution of surf culture in El Salvador and the impact of his coaching methodology, the surf sequence, on aspiring surfers. He reflects on the challenges he faced, including injuries and the transition to coaching, while maintaining a focus on giving back to the community and inspiring others. Takeaways Marcelo started surfing at a young age, influenced by his father's passion. His desire to improve led him to seek knowledge and tools for better performance. Growing up away from the beach fueled his passion for surfing. He developed a unique training program for himself without formal coaching. Marcelo's ADHD taught him focus and visualization techniques beneficial for surfing. He founded the Christian Surfers chapter in El Salvador to share positivity. Injuries led him to study hotel management, which shaped his future. Puro Surf was born from his thesis project, combining hospitality and surfing. Marcelo emphasizes the importance of community and mentorship in surfing. He believes in the power of sharing good energy and inspiring others. Chapters 00:00 Marcelo's Surfing Journey Begins 04:26 The Transition to Coaching and Community Building 09:46 Injury and Education: A New Perspective 14:00 Resilience and Overcoming Challenges 18:58 The Surf Culture of El Salvador 22:24 Balancing Tradition and Industry Growth 27:22 The Mission of Puro Surf 31:39 Creating the Puro Surf Experience 34:41 Impacting Local Communities through Surfing 37:33 The Olympic Journey and Its Significance 42:58 The Vision Behind Puro Surf 47:17 The Journey of Building Puro Surf 55:47 Future Opportunities for Puro Surf

In this conversation, April Denny shares her journey from growing up in Marin County, California, to becoming a PhD candidate focused on human movement and performance in surfing. She discusses her experiences as a lifeguard, her transition to studying kinesiology, and her research on elite female athletes as part of the Paddle to Podium project. April emphasizes the importance of a holistic approach to training and the need for injury prevention in surfing. She also reflects on her time in Australia, working closely with athletes and coaches, and her aspirations for the future. Surf Strong Show Website Instagram Facebook April on Facebook April on Instagram Chapters 00:00 Growing Up by the Ocean 03:05 Transitioning to College Life 06:01 Exploring Kinesiology and Lifeguarding 08:55 Researching Big Wave Surfers 11:07 Journey to Graduate Studies 13:56 Lifeguarding at Ocean Beach 16:49 Training and Team Dynamics 19:50 Experiences at Kelly Slater's Wave Park 22:20 The Unique Environment of Wave Parks 27:10 The Dynamics of Surfing and Performance Improvement 32:26 Research and Education in Surfing 36:34 Navigating the PhD Journey 43:05 Cultural Insights: Surfing in Australia 48:11 Transitioning to a New Environment 51:22 Embedded Research and Athlete Support 55:19 Injury Prevention and Strength Training for Athletes 57:32 Research Focus: Preparing Female Athletes for the Olympics 01:01:23 Developing Effective Interventions for Skill Improvement 01:05:00 Challenges in Training Surfers vs. Swimmers 01:07:23 Key Findings on Stroke Dynamics and Injury Prevention 01:13:53 Community and Future Directions in Research 01:22:07 Podcast Outro.mp4

In this conversation, Jason shares his journey from academia to the military, detailing his experiences in combat and the challenges of transitioning to civilian life. He discusses the importance of finding purpose after service and highlights the mission of Operation Healing Forces, which focuses on supporting veterans and their families through retreats. The conversation emphasizes the healing power of surfing, exploring how it fosters connection, personal challenge, and emotional growth. Jason reflects on the unique relationship with the ocean and the future of surf therapy in helping veterans navigate their post-military lives. Links Jason on Facebook Operation Healing Forces Information on contributing to future OHF Retreats Takeaways Jason transitioned from academia to the military seeking adventure. Combat experience can lead to significant mental health challenges. The transition from military to civilian life is often difficult. Finding purpose after service is crucial for veterans. Operation Healing Forces provides support through couple retreats. Surfing serves as a powerful therapeutic tool for veterans. The ocean offers a unique connection that aids in healing. Surfing requires complete focus, helping to clear the mind. Building community and relationships is essential for veterans post-service. The future of surf therapy holds promise for veterans' healing journeys. Chapters 00:00 From Academia to the Military: A New Path 05:05 The Impact of 9/11 on Military Careers 07:52 Transitioning from Combat to Civilian Life 14:37 Finding Purpose After Special Forces 23:22 Joining Operation Healing Forces 34:56 Creating Safe Spaces for Conversations 42:21 Personal Journeys: From Novice to Surfer 47:31 The Immersive Experience of Surfing 52:35 The Unique Challenges of Surfing 01:01:08 Future Visions for Surf Therapy Retreats

Summary In this conversation, Kate Clements shares her journey of personal growth, self-discovery, and the creation of her travel company, Room to Roam. She discusses the healing power of surfing and ocean therapy, particularly in the context of retreats for veterans. The conversation highlights the importance of community, connection, and the joy of learning to surf later in life, emphasizing that it's never too late to embrace new challenges and experiences. Takeaways - Reconnecting with home can lead to personal growth. - Traveling and experiencing new cultures enriches life. - Creating Room to Roam was a leap of faith. - Surfing serves as a powerful form of therapy. - Retreats for veterans provide meaningful connections. - Learning to surf later in life is empowering. - The ocean offers a unique perspective on life. - Community support enhances personal wellness journeys. - Embracing challenges leads to joy and fulfillment. Connection with nature is vital for mental health. Chapters 00:00 Reconnecting with Roots 06:37 Journey of Self-Discovery 12:34 Creating a Life of Purpose 18:25 Empowering Others through Surf Therapy 29:37 Choosing the Right Path 31:05 The Humbling Experience of Learning to Surf 36:11 Surfing as a Metaphor for Life 41:50 The Power of Presence in Surfing 48:11 The Illusion of Control in Surfing 49:09 Building Community Through Surfing 51:03 Focusing on Meaningful Connections 57:40 Supporting Veterans and Strengthening Bonds 59:26 Podcast Outro.mp4

Surf Strong for Life: Unlocking the Secrets to Consistent Fitness and Mobility When I sat down to record this episode of the Surf Strong Express show, my goal was simple: to share the essential strategies and mindset shifts that have allowed me—and can help you—to maintain strength, flexibility, and overall well-being for a lifetime of surfing. Over the years, I’ve learned how to overcome the common obstacles that derail fitness routines and discovered a practical, no-frills approach to building a sustainable, surf-focused training program. Let me share these insights with you. Movement: The Foundation of Surf Fitness For me, movement is non-negotiable. But here’s the thing: it doesn’t have to be complicated. I’ve found that incorporating movement into daily life, no matter how small or simple, is the real foundation of surf fitness. It can be as straightforward as taking a walk around the block or parking further away from where you’re headed. These seemingly minor habits add up, creating a powerful ripple effect that supports more advanced training later on. Starting small and staying consistent has been my secret weapon. Breath: The Overlooked Superpower Breath work has completely transformed my approach to fitness and surfing. I didn’t realize how much of a “superpower” conscious breathing could be until I started integrating it into my day. It’s not just about enhancing surf performance (though it does that, too); it’s about using your breath to support every part of your life, from digestion to stress regulation. I’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from experts like Reese Peluso and Matteo Pistono, who have helped me deepen my daily breath practice. And honestly, it doesn’t have to be complicated—just start by taking a few intentional breaths between tasks during your day. Mobility: The Key to Longevity If there’s one thing I always tell my clients, it’s this: being able to touch your toes is more than just a party trick—it’s a key indicator of overall joint health and range of motion. For surfers, mobility isn’t just helpful; it’s essential for staying in the game long-term. Personally, I’ve learned to prioritize mobility by addressing postural imbalances and taking regular movement breaks throughout the day. Sitting too long? I get up and stretch. Feeling stiff? I do some targeted mobility work. These little actions have been game-changers for me, and they can be for you, too. Overcoming Resistance and Celebrating Progress Let’s be real—staying consistent with fitness isn’t always easy. Our primal brains are hardwired to conserve energy and avoid risk, which can make it tough to stick with a routine. I’ve learned to approach these moments of resistance with compassion. Instead of beating myself up, I celebrate the small wins—a few minutes of stretching, a short workout, or simply showing up for myself. Injuries and setbacks are part of the journey, but they don’t have to derail you. Adjust, adapt, and keep moving forward. The Journey to Lifelong Surf Fitness This episode of Surf Strong Express reflects everything I’ve come to believe about surf fitness: it’s not about perfection; it’s about consistency. By focusing on movement, breath work, and mobility—and by cultivating a mindset of self-compassion—you can unlock the secrets to lifelong surf performance. I’m on this journey alongside you, and I know that together, we can keep surfing strong for life. So, take these strategies, apply them to your own routine, and let’s keep riding the waves for decades to come.

Breath Awareness and Practical Application with Reis Peluso In this episode of the Surf Strong Show, host Greg Finch talks with Reis Peluso, a coach and educator specializing in breath awareness. Reis discusses his work with athletes and the practical applications of breath awareness in daily life, emphasizing the importance of noticing and adjusting one's breathing patterns. They explore the concept of CO2 tolerance versus air hunger and the psychological impact of breath control. Reis also shares insights on his Our Breath Collective community and how they integrate breath practices into various settings, including professional sports. This episode provides valuable tips for anyone looking to understand and optimize their breathing for better performance and quality of life. 00:00 Introduction to the Surf Strong Show 00:09 Meet Reis Peluso: Breath Coach and Educator 01:05 The Importance of Breath Awareness 02:25 Practical Applications of Breath Techniques 03:36 The Role of Curiosity in Breath Work 05:11 Adapting Breath Techniques to Daily Life 09:56 Mechanisms for Breath Awareness 17:53 Understanding Breath vs. Respiration 30:34 The Breath Collective: Community and Practice 34:54 Breath Work with Professional Athletes 39:58 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Matteo is an author, meditation teacher, and conscious breathing guide. He's written numerous books, including the one which he'll speak about today/tonight, BREATHE HOW YOU WANT TO FEEL; YOUR BREATHING TOOLKIT FOR BETTER HEALTH, RESTORATIVE SLEEP, AND DEEPER CONNECTION. Matteo began his study of the breath over 30 years ago while living in Nepal and Tibet-at the time working for a human rights advocacy group. Informed by his study of Buddhism and Hatha Yoga, extensive periods of solitary meditation, and pilgrimages across the Himalayan landscapes, Matteo offers an engaged approach to ancient wisdom traditions. Matteo has a Masters's degree in Indian Philosophy from the University of London, and his writings have appeared in The Washington Post, BBC, Men's Journal, and elsewhere. Matteo and his wife surf and ride mountain bikes from their home in Encinitas.

Alo Slebir discusses his training and focus during the off-season as a big wave surfer. He emphasizes the importance of training out of the water and striving to be better in order to perform well in the next winter season. He also talks about his circuit workouts, which include a mix of CrossFit and balance work. Alo explains the difference between off-season and in-season training, with a focus on building muscle mass in the off-season and maintaining paddle muscles during the season. He also discusses the mental and physical challenges of big wave surfing, the importance of decompressing after a big day, and the role of jiu-jitsu in his training and mindset. Alo highlights the connection between surfing and the ocean, and the importance of staying connected to the ocean in his life. He also talks about his tow partnership with Luca Padua and the trust and communication required in that relationship. Alo shares his experience of learning and surfing Mavericks, and the challenges and rewards of pursuing big wave surfing. In this conversation, Greg and Alo discusses the intricacies of big wave surfing and the mental and physical preparation required. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the variables involved in surfing, such as swell direction and wave size, and the constant learning process that comes with it. Alo also highlights the lifelong pursuit of improving surfing skills and the need to remain focused and calm in challenging situations. He shares insights into the safety protocols and checklists followed before tackling big waves, as well as the importance of the Junior Lifeguard program in fostering a love for the ocean.

Emily Hightower discusses her love for outdoor activities such as skiing, hiking, bow hunting, and kayaking. She explains the concept of skinning in skiing and the unique experience of being in nature. Greg and Emily also discuss the power of water and the importance of being present and connected to the environment. They touch on the challenges of attachment to outcomes and the need to focus on the process rather than the result. Emily shares practical tips for staying present and detached from outcomes, including visualization and down-regulating the nervous system. In this conversation, Emily Hightower and Greg Finch discuss the importance of regulating the nervous system and the role of breath and movement in managing stress and trauma. They emphasize the need to shift our perspective on stress and view it as an evolutionary tool rather than something to be avoided. They also highlight the power of reconnecting with nature and engaging in activities like surfing to improve overall well-being. Emily and Greg share their experiences working with first responders and military personnel and how these individuals can benefit from breathwork and movement practices. They also introduce their company, Shift, which focuses on helping individuals understand and interact with their stress physiology to optimize healing and performance.