Published by Steven Dimmitt
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
Listen on Apple Podcasts1 hr 43 min
Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering specialists, his winter training in Arco, boards vs. spray walls, go-to bouldering circuits, tactics for hard flash attempts, catching the moment, and much more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:11) – Settling down in Arco (00:08:47) – Why are the best sport climbers also the best boulderers? (00:15:23) – Does sport climbing help bouldering? (00:18:35) – How the 8C flash goal evolved (00:24:05) – How little Adam warms up (00:27:26) – Board and spray wall training (00:33:37) – Adam’s off-the-wall training (00:36:19) – Stronger than ever (00:40:21) – Why Adam doesn’t train on a hangboard (00:43:43) – Edge lifting vs. climbing (00:48:40) – Interval bouldering (00:53:04) – How Adam’s indoor bouldering sessions have changed (00:55:04) – Interval bouldering continued (00:57:08) – Short routes vs. long boulders (01:01:21) – Boulder flashing tactics (01:05:30) – Visualization (01:08:48) – Choosing flash beta (01:11:08) – Adam’s weaknesses & strengths (01:16:34) – Catching the moment (01:20:20) – Flashing Emotional Landscapes 8C (01:25:11) – 8C+ flash goal? (01:29:54) – B.I.G. (01:36:22) – What’s next for Adam (01:40:11) – The Smith Rock project
1 hr 42 min
Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest route of his life. We talked about his early climbing and hiatus, the turning point, Project 127, living in the crescendo, balancing family life, his 33 days on Flight of the Conchords, the tactics that helped him send, and much more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aaron-shamy Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:43) – Aaron’s early climbing (00:06:56) – The X Games in the '90s (00:12:05) – 15-year hiatus (00:16:08) – The turning point (00:20:43) – Starting his comeback (00:22:33) – Milliseconds and millimeters (00:24:17) – The rule of thirds (00:27:23) – Project 127 (00:41:00) – Living in the crescendo (00:44:12) – Balancing family life (00:50:24) – 33 days on Flight of the Conchords 5.14c (8c+) (00:57:32) – Why different routes require different strategies (01:01:48) – Mental strategies for reducing pressure (01:05:29) – Day 32 (the kneebar) (01:10:45) – Day 33 (the send) (01:14:11) – Playfulness & tactics (01:18:13) – Best climbing days (01:23:48) – Transformation (01:28:20) – Life of Villains 5.14d (9a) (01:32:29) – Supplements (01:34:29) – Who are you becoming?
2 hr 10 min
Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who experience anxiety or depression, what Rifle was like in the early ‘90s, how Chris Sharma broke the paradigm, embracing training to send his hardest routes, his new role with the American Alpine Club, and the inaugural American Climbing Journal coming later this year. You can learn more at americanalpineclub.org Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-samet Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:27) – Teasing topics (00:05:34) – Panic attacks (00:10:19) – Benzo addiction (00:26:45) – Setback & self-care (00:36:32) – Matt’s biggest lesson (00:43:48) – Matt’s advice for anxiety & depression (00:48:36) – Rifle in the early '90s (01:08:07) – Sharma broke the paradigm (01:14:10) – Embracing the Moonboard (01:21:46) – Training results (01:30:24) – Matt’s climbing now (01:32:28) – Moonboard math (01:36:52) – An alternative to 4x4s (01:39:15) – Matt’s route projects (01:45:49) – Loving climbing more than ever (01:50:59) – The American Climbing Journal (02:04:59) – Adam Ondra appreciation riff (02:08:14) – Wrap up
1 hr 1 min
Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditative arts helped his boxing, how 20 minutes of meditation per day for 1 year can permanently change your life, breathing tips for climbers, how to regulate your nervous system, and much more. You can learn more about Jeff at theyieldingwarrior.com Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeff-patterson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:30) – Jeff’s background in martial arts (00:04:26) – How Tai Chi helped his boxing (00:13:37) – The Meditative Arts (00:16:55) – What climbers can learn from martial arts (00:20:31) – 20 minutes per day for 1 year (00:23:58) – 3 considerations (00:33:35) – Nervous system regulation (00:45:01) – Tangible tips (00:51:06) – Make the commitment (00:52:56) – Comparing martial arts (00:55:33) – Letting go of the mask (00:58:35) – Where to find Jeff (00:59:20) – Final advice
2 hr 9 min
Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how his relationship with climbing has improved, balancing an engineering career with traveling and climbing, discovering and understanding moves, the boulder he is most psyched to complete, and much more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/herm-feissner Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – FA of The Practitioner V11 (00:08:38) – Getting into climbing in 1987 (00:22:18) – Climbing with stronger people (00:27:51) – Evolving through the disciplines (00:33:12) – CATS (00:37:11) – Herm’s training philosophy (00:44:32) – Aging & improving (00:55:22) – Avoiding the expiration date (01:01:05) – How Herm’s climbing has changed (01:07:35) – How hard Herm climbs (01:10:27) – Who will push bouldering to the next level? (01:20:27) – Herm’s grading criteria (01:27:25) – How his relationship with climbing has improved (01:30:35) – Relationships (01:38:22) – Boarding school & engineering (01:50:12) – How to be outside (01:58:57) – Discovering & understanding moves (02:02:59) – I Portici (02:08:02) – Wrap up
2 hr 7 min
Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him at Smith Rock, our parallel family histories, treating life as a game, how the Cobra Crack changed his career, how he trained as a teenager, stamina vs. strength, what makes Dave Graham so strong, and his book, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life . Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sonnie-trotter Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:38) – Connor Herson’s 5.15a FAs (00:09:35) – Gunning for 5.15 (00:11:49) – Meeting Sonnie at Smith Rock (00:20:37) – His life routine (00:24:43) – Sonnie’s kids (00:29:24) – Time warp (00:33:24) – Family history (00:39:35) – Life is a game (00:42:45) – The business side of Sonnie’s life (00:53:19) – Choices & constraints (01:03:07) – Cobra Crack (01:09:20) – The progression of climbing (01:16:24) – Getting sponsored (01:20:07) – The age of print media (01:24:34) – Rifle in the 90s (01:30:52) – How he trained as a teenager (01:36:04) – Stamina vs. strength (01:45:30) – Sticking to the basics (01:49:31) – What makes Dave Graham so strong (01:54:33) – Writing his book
54 min
Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, a new 4-part documentary series now streaming on HBO Max about Dean Potter, which shares the full story of Dean in all of his human complexity—as a visionary, climbing legend, and a tormented soul. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Join Climb Accelerator (Earlybird Sale) 👉 https://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/peter-mortimer Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:21) – Peter’s film career (00:11:54) – Hustling (00:15:28) – The Dark Wizard (00:31:14) – Inside Dean’s mind (00:38:34) – Dean’s rivalry with Alex Honnold (00:49:42) – Everything on the table (00:51:25) – Where to watch (00:52:34) – Where to follow Peter
1 hr 46 min
Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance . We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first ascent of some of the best hard boulders in Leavenworth (Beautification, God is in the Details, The Teacup), how he got so strong, how to apply your strength on the wall, the challenges of endurance training in climbing, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-thompson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:29) – Dave’s path to rock climbing (00:07:31) – Bob Buckley (00:10:42) – The Teacup FA (00:14:54) – Dave’s coaching philosophy (00:25:53) – How Dave got up to V14 (00:37:05) – A way of moving (00:43:19) – How to improve your gym sessions (00:48:11) – Training (00:55:54) – Dave’s climbing and coaching (00:58:53) – Dave coaches me on The Teacup (01:02:48) – FAs in the Methow Valley (01:06:59) – FAs in Leavenworth (01:11:16) – How strong can adults get at climbing? (01:13:18) – Personal agency (01:20:34) – Catching a wave (01:23:46) – Bouldering efficiency session (01:30:32) – Evoke success (01:36:47) – Training for sport climbing (01:43:25) – Not thinking (01:44:17) – How to connect with Dave
1 hr 55 min
Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – Winter Olympics (00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris (00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris (00:25:50) – LA Olympics (00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living (00:34:49) – Building a following in China (00:38:40) – Different speed formats (00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League (00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing (01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc (01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools (01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma (01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing (01:32:08) – The potential of speed (01:38:43) – Speed Classic (01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule (01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women (01:47:33) – Hobbies & books (01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals (01:52:08) – Airport stoicism (01:53:34) – Where to find Sam
1 hr 30 min
Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the other side of the veil, having her arms sewn together, what climbing was like before and after the accident, skin graft DNA, the healing process of writing Climbing Through , and much more. You can learn more about Melissa at melissaistrong.com Buy Her Book: Climbing Through: A Courageous Story of Grit, Healing, and Second Chances by Melissa Strong Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melissa-strong Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:40) – Melissa’s hands (00:04:54) – Life before her accident (00:09:05) – The accident (00:14:56) – The Forest & The Tunnel (00:30:55) – Arms sewn together (00:47:25) – Climbing before & after the accident (00:58:29) – Skin graft DNA (01:00:20) – The expiration date of climbing (01:08:34) – What comes after climbing (01:14:40) – Writing her book (01:21:03) – What’s next (01:24:46) – Where to buy the book (01:26:13) – How Bird & Jim got its name
2 hr 4 min
Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat. The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:00) – Hurricave (00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash (00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise (00:12:30) – The bigger picture (00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season (00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson (00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel (00:46:51) – Ice cube moments (00:58:58) – Hi-Low (01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip (01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity (01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued (01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster (01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling (01:35:55) – Achievement to experience (01:39:00) – Strength training (01:45:39) – My Hueco goals (01:49:03) – Joel’s goals (01:52:13) – The Teacup (01:56:03) – Wrap up
1 hr 48 min
Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing, like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. Don’t skip this episode if you are a self-coached climber. The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Key Takeaways PDF 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.squarespace.com/s/Key-Takeaways_Updated.pdf Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall-repost-from-patreon
1 hr 18 min
Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience in the outdoors, why Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra are the G.O.A.T.s, and why climbing competitions are about to get a lot more exciting. You can learn more at proclimbing.com The Nugget Training App 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-boscoe Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:48) – The perfect phrase (00:10:55) – Hooked on climbing (00:15:49) – The impermanence of achievements (00:22:56) – Commentating (00:26:01) – Janja Garnbret & Adam Ondra (00:30:39) – IFSC Broadcasting (00:34:11) – Pro Climbing League (00:45:50) – Adjustable comp walls (00:48:44) – Can two climbs be identical? (00:53:59) – The viewing experience (01:02:07) – Goals for PCL (01:06:22) – Logistical challenges (01:11:04) – The first comp (London, Feb 28) (01:13:06) – Broncos, Seahawks, Mariners (01:17:29) – Wrap up
2 hr 25 min
Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, developing his own style, how Fred Nicole inspired him, redefining progress with age, tips for compression problems and wide cracks, and the state of elite bouldering and cutting-edge grades. Increase Your Finger Strength by 10% 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com Download My Finger Training PDF 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds Support on Patreon 👉 http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-schulte Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:13) – Being an introvert (00:13:49) – Becoming a boulderer (00:24:56) – First ascents vs. repeating (00:37:09) – Climbing in Yosemite (00:47:00) – How Chris developed his climbing style (00:51:28) – Fred Nichol's inspiration (01:11:25) – Putting brakes on grades (01:33:02) – What drives Chris & what progress looks like (01:40:20) – How climbing has changed with age (01:50:37) – The Big Island (01:51:56) – Pairing projects (01:55:31) – Compression climbs (01:59:16) – Elbow tendonitis (02:03:08) – What makes for a beautiful line (02:08:51) – Best V10+ compression in the Front Range (02:14:28) – Tips on wide cracks (02:18:43) – Where Chris would like to climb next
1 hr 49 min
Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the 10th Mountain Division in WW2, the breaking of Hitler’s Gothic Line, stories of mountain gorilla warfare, gear innovations that changed climbing forever, and much more. You can listen to Christian’s podcast at christianbeckwith.com The Nugget Training App | 3 NEW Bouldering Programs (14-Day Free Trial) thenuggetclimbing.com/app-bouldering Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET" for 10% off and "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christian-beckwith Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:48) – Ninety-Pound Rucksack (00:10:46) – Birth of the 10th Mountain Division (00:22:00) – Ghosts in the trees (00:35:23) – New ropes & belay techniques (00:49:45) – Boots (00:54:00) – New vs. old climbing gear (00:57:49) – The Ninety-Pound Rucksack Challenge (01:05:35) – Breaking Hitler’s Gothic Line (01:19:18) – Coal to diamond (01:25:05) – Writing the story of the 10th (01:34:32) – Teaching GIs to climb (01:41:45) – What’s next for this story (01:47:30) – Wrap up
1 hr 48 min
Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter Attia, her health routines, training for a world record in grip strength, balance training, rediscovering art, and much more. The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trial training.thenuggetclimbing.com The GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDF thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG | Portable Hangboard frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget And use code “NUGGET" for 10% off and code "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpson-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:12) – Leaving Lone Pine (00:08:25) – The energy of Salt Lake (00:13:12) – Kalymnos (00:17:23) – Turning 80 (00:21:46) – Climbing in the gym (00:25:26) – Women leveling the playing field (00:31:34) – Dr. Peter Attia (00:38:44) – Why (00:44:47) – Routines & training (00:54:43) – Carol’s deadhang goal (00:57:25) – Being your own advocate (01:02:24) – Balance training (01:11:41) – Yoga (01:15:45) – Art & breathing (01:23:14) – Joy (01:25:45) – Accepted (01:27:10) – Unrealized dreams (01:30:06) – Tips from Carol (01:33:18) – Don’t get married (01:43:44) – What’s next (01:45:33) – Wrap up
1 hr 43 min
Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from the competition circuit, taking up archery, rediscovering his passion for climbing, sending Move 9b/+ in Flatanger, trying Silence 9c with Sean Raboutou, training lessons, and much more. Red Bull | The Plane Climb Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vcxVao0G8c The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trial training.thenuggetclimbing.com The GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDF thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG | Portable Hangboard frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code "FREEBUCKET99" for a free chalk bucket on any order over $99. And use code “NUGGET" for 10% off storewide. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/domen-skofic Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:15) – The Plane Climb (00:10:15) – Skydiving (00:19:53) – The Plane Climb continued (00:31:48) – Domen’s father (00:42:54) – Building his gym (00:46:11) – Retiring from competitions (01:01:26) – Archery (01:05:21) – Rediscovering his passion (01:11:51) – Move 9b/+ (01:25:45) – Flatanger (01:28:06) – Trying Silence 9c with Sean Raboutou (01:33:17) – Training (01:39:38) – Wrap up
2 hr 47 min
Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than two weeks at age 40, why discomfort helps us grow, his training routine for the past year, building a successful brewery and pizzeria from the ground up, what matters most in climbing, gratitude for life, the connections we make through climbing, and much more. The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trial training.thenuggetclimbing.com The GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDF thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG | Portable Hangboard frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET" for 10% off and "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping. Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-moss Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:21) – Steve’s climbing origin story (00:07:30) – Life before climbing (00:09:58) – His wife (00:14:27) – Leavenworth (00:18:41) – A resurgence of stoke (00:23:37) – Passion & challenge (00:26:36) – Why discomfort is beneficial (00:34:21) – Building the brewery (00:52:31) – Brewing beer (00:56:56) – Steve’s nephew (01:04:11) – Double V12 day (01:11:46) – Gratitude (01:14:37) – Protein & breakthroughs (01:20:51) – Bodyweight (01:24:17) – Crimping (01:27:42) – The hardest part of training (01:36:39) – Steve’s training (02:03:30) – 455 V-point day (02:20:31) – Century bike ride (02:21:49) – Advice for a young Steve Moss (02:27:48) – Baseball (02:29:19) – The people (02:36:21) – What’s next
1 hr 57 min
Tyler Stableford is a lifelong climber and psychotherapist specializing in trauma resolution and treatment-resistant conditions. We talked about how to find more joy in our climbing, whether high performers are happier, controlling the inputs while releasing attachment to outcomes, what to do with anxiety before we climb, how to break mental plateaus, memory reconsolidation, why self-compassion will help you climb harder, and much more. The Nugget Training App training.thenuggetclimbing.com Get a FREE Finger Strength Testing Session and Customized Report The GRINDS Program thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds FREE Finger Training PDF Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “PRESEASON" for $100 off + free shipping on the Belay Down Jacket. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-stableford Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:00) – Tyler’s upbringing (00:09:12) – Discipline, joy, & wellness (00:14:38) – Appreciation (00:21:10) – What is your WHY? (00:28:20) – Are high performers happier? (00:31:08) – Will you lose your edge? (00:42:32) – Identity (00:49:07) – Constraints to joy (00:53:39) – Controlling the inputs (00:57:10) – Listening to our intuition (01:07:49) – What CBT is missing (01:11:22) – Memory Reconsolidation (01:21:44) – Self-compassion (01:29:49) – How to mentally break plateaus (01:36:45) – Attachment to progress (01:39:45) – Common stories we tell ourselves (01:42:11) – Two phrases (01:46:07) – What to do with anxiety (01:49:47) – Our egos (01:53:15) – Wrap up
1 hr 24 min
Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer , Dawson Freeze , and Michael Larson . We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers. See the show notes for the full articles here . The Nugget Training App training.thenuggetclimbing.com Get a FREE Finger Strength Testing Session and Customized Report The GRINDS Program thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds FREE Finger Training PDF Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/four-pts Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:16) – Overview (00:07:52) – Sarah’s topic (the case for taking a break) (00:10:24) – What Sarah’s research process looked like (00:11:22) – Surprises in Sarah’s research process (00:12:35) – Recommendations on when to take time off (00:15:48) – How to sustain stoke (00:18:04) – How climbing ability solidifies over time (00:20:56) – If Sarah did a follow-up study (00:28:38) – Dawson’s topic (heel hooking and knee injuries) (00:33:22) – Common heel hook injuries (00:35:20) – Go to hip mobility exercises (00:39:00) – Heel hooking warm-ups (00:41:01) – Surprises in Dawson's research (00:43:27) – If Dawson did a follow-up study (00:49:28) – Michael's topic (off the wall strength training) (00:52:10) – How often should climbers weight train (00:55:34) – At what point are you strong enough (01:02:59) – Comparing athletes (01:09:47) – Stability-focused exercises (01:19:18) – Value in taking time off (01:21:19) – Jared's final thoughts