Chemist Confessions

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag. 00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review 12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol? 25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study 29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing 34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives 38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0 41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

Check out Soko Glam: Check out our products: https://sokoglam.com/collections/chemist-confessions?_pos=1&_psq=chemist+confessions&_psid=080163648&_ss=e In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths behind product categories like toners and essences, and why classic ingredients like snail mucin continue to hold up under scientific scrutiny. From the manufacturing hurdles of hot-pour cleansing balms to navigating US sunscreen filter regulations, we unpack what it takes to formulate effective products amidst viral TikTok trends. If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #sokoglam @sokoglam #skincarescience

#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All! In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide • Dr. Reju-All Official Amazon Store: https://amzn.to/4gfUXI1. • Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream: https://amzn.to/4gdo4LT. • Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum: https://amzn.to/4gAJmo6. #drrejuvall #ad #pdrnserum

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy. Timestamps 00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy 03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review 06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum 15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum 19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions 23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum 26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy 31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine #GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #

🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype? In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famous 500 Dalton Rule to reveal how much of your product actually penetrates the skin barrier. And most importantly... all the theories and in vitro studies aside, what do the clinical studies REALLY say? YouTube Timestamps 00:00 | Biological Role of Copper Peptides 02:55 | The Four Categories of Skincare Peptides 04:18 | What is the 500 Dalton Rule? (Skin Permeation Guidelines) 08:32 | GHK-Cu Molecular Weight & Permeability Limitations 18:41 | Copper Peptide better than Tretinoin? What the clinical data ACTUALLY say) 25:20 | Animal Fun Fact! Copper peptides in the animal kingdom 30:58 | Can you use copper peptide with vitamin C? Active Ingredient Incompatibilities & Layering Guidelines 🔗 Resources & Links Animal fun fact study for the curious: https://www.livescience.com/bloodworms-fangs-origins Blank Slate Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser (add to cart and get the mini for free with code MINIME) Our Sunscreen Database! https://www.chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge

Description: We are tackling our top 10 sunscreen takeaways after four straight years of testing dozens of formulas in our 3430 series! From figuring out how much SPF you actually need to apply (and why we rating-split over the infamous Rich Area Hold Cream), we get into all the messy details. We also dive into eye-area stinging, why US mineral sunscreens hit differently, layering under makeup, handling acne flare-ups, and finding out if dropping to SPF 30 actually gives you better texture. Timestamps 00:01:05 | How Much Sunscreen Should You Actually Apply? 00:03:22 | Why Did the Rich Area Hold Cream Get a Mediocre Rating? 00:05:51 | Can You Safe Apply Sunscreen to Eyelids Without Eye Stinging? 00:09:09 | Does Rubbing Sunscreen in Too Long Ruin the Protective Film? 00:12:09 | Are US Sunscreens Inferior to International Sunscreens? 00:15:47 | How Do You Layer Sunscreen Under Makeup Without Pilling? 00:18:00 | What Is the Best Replacement for Banana Boat Light as Air? 00:20:00 | Does Sunscreen Cause Acne Breakouts? 00:20:53 | Does Lowering to SPF 30 Offer Better Texture Than SPF 50? 00:25:17 | How Do You Proper Remove Water-Resistant Sunscreen? Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #skincarepodcast

WE ARE BACK! Our 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge continues by diving into the wild world of US chemical sunscreens! In this episode, we break down 13 different formulas—categorized by price point from budget-friendly drugstore finds to eye-watering luxury formulas. TIMESTAMPS: 00:31 | US Chemical Sunscreens Overview 01:30 | Economical & Drugstore Sunscreens 05:11 | Neutrogena Sport Face SPF Review 07:01 | Testing Vacation Sunscreen & Pilling Issues 09:45 | Eucerin Tinted Chemical Sunscreen 13:05 | e.l.f. Suntouchable Silicone Texture 15:35 | Anua Invisible Matte & Numbuzin SPF 25:14 | Sephora & High-End Sunscreen Breakdown 28:48 | ISDIN Fusion Water Magic Performance 33:16 | Tatcha The Silken Sunscreen & Avobenzone Stability Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

We are wrapping up the next leg of our #30for30 sunscreen challenge testing roundup! In this episode, we dive deep into the world of international sunscreens, putting five popular EU formulas and eight Asian sunscreens to the test. Plus, don't miss a hilarious, science-backed detour into the sophisticated culinary habits of cockatoos! Products Mentioned: • Avene Anti-Pigmentation Tinted Fluid https://go.shopmy.us/p-64086387 • La Roche Posay UVMune Tinted Fluid https://go.shopmy.us/p-67227007 • La Roche Posay UV Air Serum https://go.shopmy.us/p-71463108 • Geek & Gorgeous Zero Feel https://go.shopmy.us/p-68997384 • La Roche Posay UV Mune Hydration https://go.shopmy.us/p-67239571 • Curel Moisture Intensive Care https://go.shopmy.us/p-65141082 • Cell Fusion C Laser UV Defense https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465193 • Biore Watery Hold Cream https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465570 • Biore Rich Airy Hold Cream https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465508 • Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel Feel https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465758 • Anessa Moisture Perfect https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465924 • Rhoto Skin Aqua Hyaluronic Acid Serum https://go.shopmy.us/p-67228915 Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

The #30for30 Sunscreen Challenge is back, and we are officially kicking off our deep dive! In this episode, we’re breaking down the US mineral sunscreens we put to the test. From "accidental" foundations and heavy-duty rub-ins to luxury formulas that claim to erase wrinkles, we’re giving you the unfiltered truth on what’s worth your cash and what you should pass on. Grab your SPF, and let's get into the reviews! Timestamps 0:00 - Intro 0:45 - Missha Perfect Cover: hybrid formula that's better as a foundation than standalone sunscreen 02:15 - Merit The Uniform: A solid coverage - SPF usage rate balance 04:00 - Bloomeffects Tulip Screen Dew Drops: serious glow, $$$$$ 05:30 - CeraVe Invisible Mineral: okay daily basic, not for those in sweat-happy scenarios 07:15 - Kiehl’s Better Screen: Redness reduction & post-procedure stats 09:45 - SkinCeuticals Future Mineral: Luxury pricing vs. real anti-aging results Products Mentioned • Missha Perfect Cover BB Cream SPF 42 PA+++ ($24/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775225 • Merit The Uniform Tinted SPF 45 ($38/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-68610171 • Bloomeffects Tulip Screen Dew Drops SPF 50 ($39/30mL) go.shopmy.us/p-67231497 • CeraVe Invisible Mineral SPF 50 ($17/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775395 • Kiehl’s Better Screen Miner-all UV Serum SPF 50 ($36/40mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775593 • SkinCeuticals Future Mineral UV Defense SPF 50 ($60/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775734 Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions Instead of getting bogged down by marketing fluff, we dive deep into the real metrics of sunscreen performance: initial application speed, the science behind "watery breaks," and how a product's long-term finish affects different skin types. Listeners will walk away knowing exactly how to spot uneven film formation, navigate the nuances of water and friction resistance, and decode why certain formulas cause eye irritation or pilling so they can find their perfect, reliable daily match. #skincarescience #skincare #skincareroutine #sunscreen

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions We are deep in sunscreen season, but unfortunately, it is also fear-mongering season. In this episode, we take a scientific look at prominent clean beauty advocacy voices like EWG and the Yuka app to untangle the science from the marketing fluff. We pull back the curtain on how these platforms analyze formulations, revealing why their extreme stances and rigid rating systems often lead to massive inconsistencies, misguided consumer fear, and ultimately, unsafe choices for your skin. By walking you through real-world formulation realities—from the stabilization challenges of zinc oxide to the actual toxicological safety profiles of chemical filters like octocrylene and vital preservatives like phenoxyethanol—we give you the context needed to tune out the noise. Tune in to ground yourself in cosmetic chemistry, find peace of mind, and gain the confidence to choose formulas that actually protect your skin daily without the unnecessary anxiety. #skincarescience #skincare #skincareroutine

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions We are starting of this series with tinted sunscreens. Navigating this category can feel like an existential crisis because these formulas are highly dependent on specific skin types and coverage needs. In this episode, we categorize this year's contenders by pigment level—ranging from completely sheer fluids to high-coverage, foundation-like hybrids, while analyzing the formulation realities behind heavy textures, solvent loads, and the myth of the "universal tint".

We are officially diving into the sunscreen segment to break down a burning, highly technical question for anyone tackling stubborn dark spots: is iron oxide a non-negotiable must-have for your hyperpigmentation routine? Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We are reviewing five popular K-Beauty products to see if they actually live up to the hype. We break down the science behind different PDRN sources, explore the "50 peptides" marketing claims, and analyze clinical data to separate realistic skin improvements from clever lighting tricks. You will learn how these products perform on different skin types—from "sticky and drying" textures to clinical-grade results—so you can decide which formulas are worth your routine and which are just "science-flavored" fillers. Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 IOPE | XMD Stem III Clinical Recovery Serum 50ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56645998 MEDIHEAL | PDRN Lifting Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646034 DR.REJU-ALL | Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream 20ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646069 REJURAN | Rejuran Turnover Ampoule C-PDRN 0.5% Renewing Serum for Smooth Texture & Glass Skin 1.01 Oz/30 mL: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646122 NUMBUZIN | No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646193 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We take an objective look at two polar opposite formulas—a $20 "junior" product and a $250 luxury serum—to see if the high science matches the high price tag. We break down the mysteries of sourcing, discuss why your 1% active might not be what it seems, and share our honest (and sometimes smelly) trial experiences. Whether you’re looking for genuine rejuvenation or just want to avoid lighting $500 on fire, we’ve got the data you need to navigate this rapidly changing landscape. Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions #skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn

Chemist Confessions Minis! https://chemistconfessions.com/shop/kits&minis We're pickup where we left off with another science update episode! Today, we're diving into another buzzy ingredient in the "longevity" space: PDRN. In this episode, we go beyond the "salmon sperm" headlines to investigate the latest science update on plant-derived PDRN from peony & rose, discuss the potential impact of molecular weight, and discuss early looks of unique PDRN delivery systems. Let's navigate the complex clinical data behind these DNA fragments and see if they actually match up to the marketing hype. Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions #skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn

Exosome is that $500 buzzword that's not going anywhere anytime soon. The claims have only gotten broader from healing, skin regeneration, eczema, anti-aging, to even alopecia. In this episode, we provide an update on any new data since our last deep dive last year. We discuss how these tiny lipid nanovesicles—ranging from 30 to 200 nanometers—function as "biological mail" that triggers collagen synthesis and other regenerative pathways. But do the theories really convert to proven topical benefits? We also tackle one of the most important things you should know about exosomes - sourcing. Does it matter if your exosomes come from humans, plants, or bacteria? And what sort of skin benefits could exosomes provide...if any. Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

In this episode, we are diving deep into the retinal (retinaldehyde) landscape to see how current market offerings stack up. Following our technical breakdown of retinol versus retinal, we shift our focus to real-world testing of popular formulations from Krave Beauty, Prequel, Celimax, and Medik8. We examine the scientific validity of concentration ranges—from the entry-level 0.05% to the more intense 0.24%—and discuss how different textures and price points impact the user experience for various skin types. Whether you are a retinoid rookie or a seasoned pro, we provide the detailed assessment on the data to find the right one for your particular skinario. Timestamps: 00:00 - Intro 02:18 - Product Aesthetics & Textures 08:35 - Krave Beauty 24 Retinal Decode 10:21 - Prequel Retinal Renewal Decode 15:48 - Celimax Vita-A Retinal Shot Decode 22:00 - Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 Decode 23:51 - Is Retinal 11x faster than Retinol? 28:39 - Chemists' Favorite Retinal (Personal favorites and usage recommendations) Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 PREQUEL | Retinal Renew Retinaldehyde Gel: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236222 CELIMAX | The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236269 KRAVEBEAUTY | 24 Carrot Retinal Gentle 0 05 Retinal Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We are diving back into the "rumor mill" of the retinoid world! Is Retinal actually better than Retinol, or is it just better marketing? In this episode, we revisit the Retinol vs. Retinal debate with new 2026 data. We break down what the evidence says about the retinoid conversion pathway into retinoic acid. We look at the latest clinical evidence to help you decide if it’s time to switch your anti-aging active or stay the course with your current skincare routine. Episode Timestamps 0:00 - Intro: Revisiting the Retinoid Rumor Mill 1:34 - Why Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is Growing in Popularity 2:01 - The Science of Retinoic Acid Conversion Steps 5:30 - What the Data Shows (Retinol vs. Retinal ex vivo Conversion) 9:15 - Retinal vs. Retinol: Potency & Efficacy Realities 14:40 - Is Retinal Actually Gentler? (Irritation & Skin Barrier) 18:20 - Debunking High-Concentration Retinoid Myths 23:55 - Reviewing Recent Retinal Product Launches 28:10 - How to Choose: Retinol or Retinal for your Skin Type? 36:22 - Final Verdict: Should You Switch Your Active? Resources & Mentions Retinal vs Retinol on the CC Blog: https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/retinal-is-it-better-than-retinol Retinol vs Tretinoin: https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/tretinoin-vs-retinol Follow us on IG : @chemist.confessions #chemistconfessions #retinal #retinol #skincarescience #antiaging #retinaldehyde #skincareroutine

We are taking a break from hyperpigmentation actives! In this finale, we tie together months of research to help you build the ultimate hyperpigmentation skincare routine. We rank the actives from our last 10 episodes—including Hydroquinone, Azelaic acid, Arbutin, Glutathione, Thiamodol, Symwhite, etc. —from S-Tier (Gold Standard) to Tier “Meh.” We also filter through the 18 products we tested down to the ones we think should be on your radar and warn you about "Niacinamide Overload." Timestamps: 0:00 - Intro: Our Hyperpigmentation Journey Recap 1:34 - How to Build a Hyperpigmentation Routine Framework 3:37 - S-Tier Actives: The Most Effective Brightening Ingredients 5:44 - A-Tier: Reliable, Well-Tested Actives for Dark Spots 7:12 - B-Tier: Decent but with some caveats 10:23 - C-Tier & "Meh" 14:17 - Top Product Recommendations: which ones should you actually try? 21:07 - The Niacinamide Math: Avoid Potential Skin Irritation from Overlayering Product Links LA ROCHE-POSAY | Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum with Melasyl + Niacinamide: https://go.shopmy.us/p-47880551 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS10 for 10% off) EUCERIN | Radiant Tone Dual Serum Dark Spot Corrector: https://go.shopmy.us/p-47881019 ULTA | The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134844 ANUA | Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134854 PAULA'S CHOICE | 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134896 Numbuzin Glutahione TXA Advanced Dark Spot Ampoule Concentrate: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134975 Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions