Blamo!

Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo return for the third installment of their quarterly AMA series, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel. This time, they go deep on fabric: navy sport coats, green double-breasted suits, the five tweeds they would choose from scratch, and the right cloth for a balmacaan. They also revisit bespoke mistakes, the tailors still on their wish lists, shoes for serious walking, the difference between personal style and costume, and what actually reads from across the room. Plus: date-night clothes without tailoring, keeping pet hair off your wardrobe, finding occasions to wear the clothes you already own, the appeal of authentic workwear, their favorite versions of menswear staples, and why the person you imagine in the mirror may not be the person everyone else sees. They close by designing the elusive middle-ground jacket—dressier than a chore coat, easier than a sport coat, and made for the romantic life of a writer. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying, selling, or insuring your next luxury watch ** Fabric Recommendations Navy Sport Coat Derek’s Picks: Holland & Sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers Huddersfield or Smiths Mock Leno Harrison Spring Ram stitched hopsack Holland & Sherry cashmere doeskin Hainsworth doeskin Fox serge Peter’s Picks: Hopsack or similar Spring Ram 16oz for fall/winter or Finmeresco 12oz for summer , I have experience with Moorhouse and while it’s much softer it’s too prone to fraying Green double-breasted suit in the South Derek’s Picks: Harrisons Spring Ram Huddersfield Fine Worsted Super Gaberdine Peter’s Picks: Spring Ram 12oz if you can stand it, or Isca 8oz if you can’t. Bear in mind that Isca is 55/45 linen/wool so it won’t be as crisp as Spring Ram. If you want a stiffer suit try Cape Kid 60/40 wool-mohair Five Tweeds Derek’s Picks Brown Molloy & Sons Donegal (or Holland & Sherry for something softer ) Gray glen check Fox tweed Something brown from W. Bill like a basic glen check or gun club Lovat Kirkton 523 Lovat Kirkton 502 Peter’s Picks: For sportcoats, I prefer softer tweeds (Shetland, lambswool, even hairy faux tweeds such as Moonbeam or Sherry Tweed) as opposed to stiff & scratchy (Harris, gamekeeper, Hartwist, Thornproof). Porter & Harding Glenroyal True POW Brown, Dark Brown, Green & Tan Dogtooth Brown with green & red check W Bill Grey shetland herringbone Holland & Sherry Sherry Tweed either Brown w/hazelnut/blue check or Brown w/chestnut/blue mock glen check Balmacaan to wear with jeans Derek’s Picks: W. Bill Classic Coatings Marling & Evans undyed wool (or this check ) VBC Hope and Archive Overcoat Holland & Sherry overcoat Lovat Ettrick (as seen at Paul Stuart Japan ) Harrisons cashmere overcoating Peter’s Picks W.Bill Classic Coatings or Irish Donegal Lint Brushes Article at Put This On Best Of M43 is vintage Chore coat was Jack/Knife (RIP) – hand-hammered rivets and leather backs, single stitching everywhere, perfect fit, until you grow out of it OCBD is Kamakura – replication of old BB and good fabrics Chino - I only have one pair from Buck Mason, the paperback Jeans are either Strike Gold 5103 slub jean ( crazy fades) or Buck Mason Full Saddle Tees are Buck Mason Field Spec Chambray shirt is Brycelands USN Perfect chambray shirt Western shirt is Stevenson Overall Co Cody Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Ian Ousley joins Jeremy from Madrid for a conversation about clothes, acting, and the long process of becoming yourself. Ian talks about relocating to Vancouver to film Avatar: The Last Airbender , how the city’s weather and retail scene changed the way he dressed, and what he learned shopping for archive fashion in Tokyo. Plus, stories about Raf Simons, Ann Demeulemeester, a nearly 15-pound Panasonic camera jacket, the Rolling Dub Trio boots he waited all day to buy, and the era when a bright red Supreme beanie felt essential. They also trace Ian’s path from wholesale vintage and his former LA shop, KALÓ SOIL . They dig into how taste and skill develop at different speeds, and what every artist has to make first. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Sondre Lerche has been writing songs for most of his life. He released his debut Faces Down more than two decades ago, and somehow, eleven albums later, he’s still finding ways to make the whole thing feel new. We talk about his new record Acrobats , spending years rewriting a single song, falling in love in a world that can make happiness feel almost irresponsible, and what performing 130 shows of *Moulin Rouge!* taught him about singing, acting, and pushing himself somewhere completely unfamiliar. We also get into getting older, vanity, learning to let go of how other people see you, his lifelong style obsession, the influence of A-ha’s Morten Harket, vintage clothes, Ralph Lauren, and why some of his earliest songs are harder for him to revisit than others. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

John Darnielle is the songwriter, author, and frontman of The Mountain Goats , one of the most influential independent bands of the past three decades. What began as Darnielle recording songs on a Panasonic boombox in the early '90s has grown into a beloved catalog spanning more than 20 albums, earning a devoted following for its literary songwriting and deeply human stories. John joins me to talk about the band's new album, Days , and why he's finally allowing himself to look back on a career that's always been focused on what's next. We get into aging without becoming nostalgic, why every act of creation is ultimately hopeful, and what it means to see your own life—and your parents' lives—with fresh eyes. We also chat about Randy Newman, the bands that shaped him, grief, faith, songwriting, influence versus imitation, and why the days really are short. Listen to Days * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! The Wardrobe Budget series reaches its completely reasonable and financially responsible conclusion: What would we buy if we had $50,000 to rebuild our wardrobes from scratch? Yes, 50K. (You asked for it!) Peter and Derek use the fantasy budget to talk about the clothes they love most, from exceptional outerwear and bespoke tailoring to workwear, shoes, and accessories. Before that, they consider Emily Segal’s concept of “tasteslop” and whether good taste can exist without cultural context. They close with a new round of tailoring, footwear, photography, and other recent discoveries in Hey, Nice Pants. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Adrian DZA has had about five different careers, and somehow all of them make sense. DJ, party promoter, skate shop owner, creative, and now co-founder of Very Special , Adrian has spent the last two decades building businesses rooted in taste rather than trends. We talk about growing up between Paris and Miami, the early days of Peachfuzz, how Very Special became one of the most respected names in vintage watches, why community matters more than hype, and what it was like to go from collecting Stone Island to starring in one of the brand's campaigns. We also get into vintage watches, records, cars, fatherhood, and why the best careers rarely follow a straight line. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! The Wardrobe Series continues with a bigger challenge: rebuilding a wardrobe with a $12,000 budget. With more room to spend, Derek and Peter debate where to invest, what’s worth upgrading, and whether one exceptional piece should take up a third of the entire budget. The result is two highly personal wardrobes—and two very different ideas about what “buy less, buy better” actually means. Along the way, they discuss Peter’s upcoming trip to London and Inis Meáin, vintage dressing, and some truly indestructible belts. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

BONUS EPISODE! Leica is much more than cameras. This week I’m joined by Karin Rehn-Kaufmann, Art Director and Chief Representative of Leica Galleries International , for a conversation about photography, memory, art, and why certain images stay with us. We talk about the emotional side of photography, why perfection isn’t the goal, how Leica thinks about galleries as places for community, what social media has changed (and what it hasn’t), collecting versus appreciating art, and why printing your photographs still matters. A fun little bonus episode for anyone who loves photography—or has ever wondered what makes Leica, well… Leica. Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Jon Klassen makes children’s books, but this isn’t really a conversation about children’s books. Jon recently won the Astrid Lindgren Memorial Award (one of the biggest honors in children’s literature), and we start there before getting into what makes his work so compelling in the first place. We talk about why he leaves space for readers instead of explaining everything, how kids are smarter than we often give them credit for, the value of ambiguity, and why making work for yourself is usually the only way to make something honest. And of course, we get into running, menswear, Studio Ghibli, Maurice Sendak, creative insecurity, and the weird pressure of trying to make good work over and over again. Jon's acceptance speech * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Joe Wengert is a comedian, writer, and actor whose work spans Comedy Bang! Bang! , The Onion , and Big Mouth . But this conversation isn’t really about comedy. Joe joins me to talk about getting older, making new friends, becoming a parent, and the strange process of trying to hold onto who you are while continuing to grow. We discuss his new animated series Kevin , co-created with Aubrey Plaza, why game nights matter more than ever, the terror of becoming a hat guy, and how a night guard can become an unexpected symbol of middle age. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! It's Die, Workwear! Derek and Peter take a break from their Wardrobe Series to chat with Matthew Gonzalez , a Southern California native who made his way from an alterations room in Irvine to London, Huntsman, and eventually his own bespoke tailoring business on Savile Row. Matthew’s work sits at a fascinating crossroads: classic American style, British tailoring tradition, and the realities of making clothing for people today. The conversation gets into his path through the trade, what makes tailoring feel American without becoming costume, the romance and economics of Savile Row, why bespoke still matters, and how the best clothes are shaped not just by rules, but by the person wearing them. https://www.matthewgonzalez.co.uk ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Singer-songwriter Alex Amen joins me to discuss his debut album, Sun of Amen . The first time I heard the record, I couldn’t believe how young he was. Not because the music sounds old, but because it carries a level of patience, craftsmanship, and emotional weight that feels increasingly rare (especially now!) Alex and I discuss the disappearing influence of regional culture, studying the great songwriters, recording live to tape, and how tradition can serve as a foundation for creating something entirely your own. We also talk about clothes, Patagonia, Texas style, California dirtbag lore, The Beatles, parenting, and the lifelong pursuit of finding your voice. BIG TUNES AND BIG FITS! End Song is "Diamonds" from the Debut LP, Sun of Amen * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! The Wardrobe Series continues, and this time the budget gets tight. With just $1,000 to spend, Derek and Peter attempt to rebuild a wardrobe from the ground up—making hard choices about what matters, what can wait, and where to stretch every dollar. The result is less about shopping and more about priorities. What are the pieces you actually need? Which ones earn their place? And how much style can you really buy on a budget? Plus: the Met Gala, menswear rabbit holes, and a few recent obsessions. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is the actor Oliver Platt . You know him from The Bear , Chicago Med , The Three Musketeers , Beethoven , The West Wing , Frost/Nixon — honestly, the list goes on forever. He’s one of those rare actors who somehow exists in every lane at once: beloved by movie people, television people, theater people, and apparently menswear guys too. We talk about growing up as the son of a diplomat, moving from Hong Kong to Japan to Washington D.C., discovering acting as a survival mechanism, early days in New York with Stanley Tucci and Hank Azaria, body image, GLP-1s, Paul Smith, Japanese denim, heritage workwear, and why sometimes you need to “give yourself the fuzzies.” * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Mickey Drexler . You probably know him as the guy behind Gap Inc., J.Crew, Old Navy, and now Chairman of Alex Mill — but this conversation turned into something much bigger than retail. Mickey thinks most modern fashion has lost its taste level. He thinks cars all look the same. He thinks corporate boards ruin creativity. He hates AI slop, overdesigned luxury, cheap packaging, bad customer service, loud gyms, and logos for the sake of logos. We talk about why Costco might secretly be one of the best brands in America, what made Rolex such a powerful marketing company, the importance of storytelling, why details matter, and what happens when companies stop caring. Plus: a wild story about getting fired from Gap after a call from Steve Jobs Mickey absolutely destroying Allbirds thoughts on vintage cars, vintage clothes, and why “if you know, you know” still matters * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Hrishikesh Hirway — the creator and host of Song Exploder — joins me this week. We talk about the strange identity crisis of becoming known as “the Song Exploder guy” while still trying to reconnect with himself as a musician and songwriter. We also get into collaboration, writer’s block, vintage clothing, obsessive music listening, and the making of his beautiful new record, “In the Last Hour of Light.” Hrishikesh opens up about interviewing hundreds of artists, how Song Exploder changed the way he thinks about creativity, and why working with other people ultimately helped him fall back in love with making music. We also talk about recording live with almost no takes, working with Iron & Wine, the emotional weight of memory and grief, and the challenge of making deeply personal work in public. This is one of my favorite kinds of conversations — two people trying to figure out what it actually means to make things for a living. Listen to "Stray Dogs" * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! Welcome to the first installment of Die, Workwear!’s new series on building a wardrobe without taking out a second mortgage. The premise is simple: if your closet disappeared tomorrow and you had $3,000 to rebuild it from scratch, what would you actually buy? Not fantasy grails. Not “quiet luxury.” Real clothes Derek and Peter would genuinely wear themselves: sport coats, tropical wool trousers, vintage eBay overcoats, loopwheeled T-shirts, Cone Mills denim, penny loafers, and a surprising amount of discussion about sweatshirts. Along the way, Peter tries to justify $140 OCBDs, Derek explains the perfect vintage-straight jean fit, and both make a compelling case for buying old Ralph Lauren off eBay instead of almost anything new. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Kevin Morby. We talk about his new record Little Wide Open , out May 15, and how ideas of home and place show up in his songwriting. From writing in different cities to figuring out what “home” actually means, Kevin gets into the rhythms behind his work. We also talk life on the road—running, watching movies, and the routines that keep things steady—plus stage clothes, residencies, and the “most him object” he owns. Kevin Morby's Substack Kevin Morby.com * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Wyatt Gilmore, founder of Grant Stone , joins me to talk about how the brand came together, what he learned spending years working in factories in China and Taiwan, and why quality footwear is about far more than country-of-origin clichés. We get into boots, loafers, suede, shell cordovan, and the realities of making shoes that feel good, age well, and actually earn their place in your closet. Plus, a tease of the upcoming Blamo! x Grant Stone collaboration. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! Derek and Peter get into how the internet shapes personal style—from the knowledge-to-flex pipeline to the limits of longform and the rise of walled gardens. They revisit early forums like r/malefashionadvice, make the case for globalization, and ask a simple question: how do you get dressed without looking like the algorithm did it for you? Plus—"Hey, Nice Pants!", new finds, and what they’re wearing lately ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.